The story
Schankkuchl in Hafendorf grounds its contemporary Steirish cuisine in a working landscape that supplies five hundred edible plant varieties alongside sheep, goats, and poultry. Chef Manuel Weissenböck directs the kitchen from an open hearth where heat and steam shape every plate. Guests sit along a shared wooden table while the brigade explains each preparation step by step. This transparent approach earned a seventeen point rating from Gault&Millau, which praised the clear distinction between this kitchen and the adjacent tavern.
The menu shifts daily according to harvest cycles, featuring garden produce on Wednesdays and fresh lake fish on Fridays. Signature preparations include the Zapfenstreich of local potatoes with mustard pickles, followed by the Teufelsroller of trout cooked tableside with sauerkraut and horseradish. A whole carp arrives as Walhalla alongside kohlrabi, while the Überflieger presents young chicken with curry and beet leaves. Dessert closes the service with Verzopft, a brioche loaf paired with rhubarb, or diners may surrender control to the kitchen through a spontaneous sequence called Let it flow.
Wooden beams and large windows frame the dining space, which sits directly beside the active cooking line. Steam rises from copper pots while flames lick the backs of cast iron pans, creating a steady rhythm that matches the pace of conversation. The design avoids formal barriers so guests can watch ingredients transform into finished courses. Regional timber and locally sourced textiles soften the industrial kitchen elements, keeping the atmosphere rooted in regional Austrian cooking.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Fundamentally speaking: At Pogusch, the Schankkuchl and the Wirtshaus are two fundamentally different things. And the one is crystal clearly separated from the other. This means: If you have a seat at the long table near the fireplaces, you cannot order anything from the Wirtshaus menu. The reverse is equally true – and rightly so. Because what is offered in the Schankkuchl is absolutely unique. There are dishes with inventive names and a service team that is both relaxed and attentive. And chefs who, after you’ve had a chance to peek over their shoulders from the bar area, explain each dish with dedication. You start with the “Zapfenstreich” – Pogusch potatoes with mustard pickles and capers – and a “Teufelsroller” made from brook trout, sauerkraut, crab apple, horseradish, and peppers, cooked right in front of our noses. Magnificent and undoubtedly an early highlight of the menu. Following are a wels catfish (“Walhalla” on the menu) that will make you kneel, served with kohlrabi, horseradish, elderflower, and wild herbs; the “Überflieger” – young chicken, curry, runner beans, cabbage heads, and Meyer lemon – and “Verzopft” – brioche bread with noodle soup, rhubarb, gooseberry, and egg liqueur. You can also – very much in the Japanese Omakase tradition – leave everything in the hands of the chefs. They call this “Let it flow” and then bring whatever comes to mind to the table. What is happening in the Schankkuchl at Pogusch right now is a wonderful balancing act between culinary rootedness and avant-garde innovation. A project with far-reaching appeal and the potential to be groundbreaking. Address Pogusch 21 8625 Sankt Lorenzen / Turnau Austria Contact 03863 2000, 03863 5151 pogusch@steirereck.at https://www.steirereck.at/pogusch/ Opening hours Thu–Sat 5–11 PM Team Manuel Weissenböck Chef
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