Cuia

The story

Cuia in São Paulo: Chef Bel Coelho’s Bib Gourmand Café-Restaurant Inside Copan

Cuia: A Chef’s Vision in the Heart of Copan

Inside the historic Edifício Copan, amid the shelves of Livraria Megafauna, Cuia is the all-day meeting place of chef and activist Bel Coelho. Part café, part restaurant, part bar, the space stays open without intervals from 10 am to 10 pm (until 11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays, and until 6 pm on Sundays), welcoming guests for brunch, lunch, dinner, coffee, or a drink. The open kitchen and a handful of outdoor tables make the atmosphere feel both intimate and lively.

The name Cuia comes from the indigenous gourd used to share food, and the decor reflects Bel’s personal collection of books, baskets, and cuia vessels. The menu is cosmopolitan but rooted in a deep respect for Brazil’s native ingredients and food cultures. Dishes change with the seasons, but signatures include the Nosso Oswaldo Aranha – grilled filet mignon with rice, farofa, potato chips, and roasted garlic purée – and a Tempurá de lula na tapioca e ponzu de caju that pairs perfectly with the bar’s Brazilian cocktails, such as the Tucupi Sour. For dessert, the Mousse de chocolate, doce de bacuri, creme de cumaru e farofa de castanha do Pará is a favorite.

Bel Coelho trained at the Culinary Institute of America and worked at El Celler de Can Roca and D.O.M. before bringing her activist spirit to the kitchen. She champions healthy, pesticide-free food and works to keep Brazil’s native fruits and traditional foodways alive. Her research into Portuguese heritage – she is of Portuguese descent – informs the menu’s subtle nods to that cuisine, from a Pirarucu à Brás that swaps cod for Amazonian fish to the careful use of olive oil and bacalhau-inspired ideas.

In 2026, Cuia earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand, a recognition of its good quality and good value cooking. The award is a natural fit for a chef who believes that thoughtful, delicious food should be accessible to everyone.