The story
Labrax Fish@Wine bar in Zadar occupies a small square near the church of St. Simeon, functioning as a modern fish and wine establishment grounded in simplicity and precision. Chef Saša Began directs the kitchen with a methodology where technique meets intuition, building on his status as one of the Great Chefs of Tomorrow according to Gault&Millau. The menu avoids conventional routes, utilizing fresh local seafood to construct contemporary dishes where unanticipated components achieve immediate harmony. This approach secured a score of 15 in the 2026 Gault&Millau guide, which highlights the thoughtful composition and seductive presentation of the food.
The kitchen employs a dedicated dry aging system for sea bass, allowing the fish to mature under controlled conditions that deepen the flavor profile and improve the texture. Appetizers feature a ceviche blending sea bass, scampi, prawns, and squid with leche de tigre, buttermilk, corn, and chili powder for a cooling effect. Warm courses present a tuna Wellington seared externally and accompanied by blue cheese espuma, Grana Padano, and Roman gnocchi, while another option offers homemade cannelloni stuffed with scampi and cottage cheese in a saffron bisque. Starters also include tuna pâté served within a crispy basket and anchovies placed atop corn cream finished with black garlic mayonnaise.
The interior reflects the vibrant character of Zadar's historic centre, providing a comfortable terrace that links directly to the old town environment. Guests encounter an atmosphere designed around rhythm and attention to detail, encouraging a lingering pace during the meal. The beverage selection mirrors the cooking's breadth, presenting a wine list that spans Croatian regions alongside curated international bottles and champagnes. The venue maintains a standing in the city's gastronomy through recognition from the Michelin Guide and features by Visit Zadar, prompting guests to book tables in advance.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
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