The story
In the Sülz district of Cologne, chef Michael Scherz runs Gasthaus Scherz, a place where Austrian country cooking is treated with precision and respect. After many years as a head chef in a well-regarded Austrian restaurant, Scherz now cooks for his own guests, bringing a clear, modern perspective to the cuisine of his homeland.
The menu is built on strong, clear flavors. Scherz uses sous-vide techniques alongside traditional roasting methods, insisting that the best roast still needs heat and rest. He focuses on exceptional spices, dry-aged meat, and heritage vegetables. The year-round classics include a Tafelspitzbouillon with beef dumpling and semolina, a Backhendl from free-range chicken with fermented vegetables and cress cream, and a Wiener Schnitzel from free-range veal served with potato-gherkin salad and tart lingonberry jam. The Tafelspitz, from Bavarian Höhenfleckvieh, comes with root vegetables, beef broth, and freshly grated horseradish.
A seasonal summer section, “Neue Klassiker, falsch interpretiert,” offers smaller plates like buffalo milk burrata with caramelized cherry tomatoes, a cold frutti di mare with Belon mussel marinade, and Kalbs Gyoza in a dashi broth. For dessert, there is Kaiserschmarrn with plum compote or a light milk mousse slice with cardamom-milk sorbet and gooseberry.
The wine list is exclusively Austrian, with a strong focus on natural, spontaneous-fermentation wines from small producers. Pet Nats, Grüner Veltliners, and Blaufränkisch from regions like the Wachau, Kremstal, and Südsteiermark are well represented.
When the weather allows, guests can sit on the generous back terrace. The restaurant’s commitment to quality and value was recognized with a Michelin Bib Gourmand award, a fitting tribute to Scherz’s careful, modern Austrian country cooking.
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