The story
At Restaurant Tanaka in Stettlen, Shinji Tanaka continues to shape modern Japanese cuisine with an intensity that has sustained him through nearly two decades in the region. After relocating from Kehrsatz to the Bernapark, the seventy-year-old pioneer maintains an unusually full schedule, serving lunch, dinner, and Sunday midday service. His Japanese kitchen treats tradition as a foundation rather than a constraint, blending established techniques with seasonal precision. Guests encounter this philosophy immediately upon seating, where the menu structure reflects a deliberate balance between refined preparation and accessible pacing.
The menu highlights specific preparations that demonstrate how far Japanese cooking extends beyond standard rolls and raw fish. A light batter wraps tender karaage chicken, which rests beside a savory broth featuring soft-set egg and kelp. Grilled sea bass arrives glazed with butter and soy sauce, while beef fillet pairs with a sharp miso cream alongside the house’s renowned potato stick served with teriyaki foam. Evening diners can also order sukiyaki directly at the table, simmering thin slices of beef, vegetables, tofu, and glass noodles in a sweet soy reduction before dipping the finished pieces into raw country eggs.
Gault & Millau awarded the establishment a score of fourteen for its consistent execution and willingness to expand the local understanding of Japanese cuisine. The highest expression of this approach appears at the six-seat omakase counter, where a dedicated sushi master prepares twenty-two courses directly in view of the guest. Each piece of nigiri, temaki, and maki arrives immediately after formation, accompanied by brief explanations that link ingredient sourcing to timing. This disciplined presentation transforms a standard meal into a structured progression of texture and temperature.
Recognition
Ambience