Daalder

High quality cooking

In the monumental building Het Sieraad in Amsterdam-West, where vocational schools were once located, sits one of the capital's most cosmopolitan restaurants. No classic tablecloths or understated luxury, but an eclectic interior featuring neon lighting, street art, and an energetic soundtrack. The perfect backdrop for executive chef Dennis Huwaë’s kitchen: playful, colorful, and outspoken. His style is a blend of street food, Asian accents, and his Moluccan heritage, executed with classical techniques and presented as true works of art. You can taste that signature right from the first bites: salmon nigiri with rice water meringue, a softly steamed bao with a perfectly cooked prawn, and a house-made kombucha of coconut and aloe vera. These are followed by dishes that showcase both the creativity of the kitchen and the role of the sommelier. The octopus with roasted fregola, grapefruit, mushrooms, and a hint of Korean gochujang is surprisingly paired with Vuurzee, a gastronomic Dutch beer brewed with champagne yeast, refreshingly sparkling and subtly spicy. The beetroot ravioli, filled with spinach and ricotta and served in a syrupy sauce of beet and balsamic, gets an alcohol-free alternative instead: Arensbak Red, featuring earthy notes of Pu-erh tea and the refreshing tension of berries and cherries. Both choices underscore the style of maître-sommelier Saskia Smeenk, who presents original pairings with expertise, enthusiasm, and flair, completing the overall experience. And this is exactly what Daalder is all about: a total experience of high culinary standards that stimulates all the senses. A feast for the eyes, a discovery in the glass, and an explosion of flavors on the plate. Rises by no less than 15 places to 58.

Daalder returns to its original location at Lindengracht 90 on June 5. Dennis Huwaë surprises his guests with two different six-course menus, but also offers a selection of different à la carte options for connoisseurs...

Hip, modern, international, contemporary, cosmopolitan, urban: all these terms apply to Daalder, owned and helmed by chef Dennis Huwaë. The music is turned up to ten upon arrival; later in the evening, it becomes a bit more pleasant. We marvel at the interior, which starkly contrasts with the old school building housing the restaurant. The interior designer gave a graffiti artist free rein, resulting in several life-sized, multicolored murals. The rest of the decor is tailored to match this wall art: ring-shaped neon light fixtures in various colors, vibrant cushions on yellow velvet benches, semi-circular booths for larger parties, a parquet floor, classic curtains, simple wooden tables and matching chairs (equipped with cushions, though they offer increasingly uncomfortable seating as the night goes on). We are treated to no fewer than six amuse-bouches; not all deliver a flavor explosion, but the vadouvan goat cheese cream tartelette is outstanding. One of the menus, the Daalder Experience, consists of a succession of dishes at a very high standard. The most daring yet also most successful combination features artichoke, fregola, grapefruit, celery, and various mushrooms, including enoki and porcini. A beautiful dish where each ingredient is distinctly recognizable yet complements the others perfectly. Paired with it is an exciting alcoholic accompaniment: a glass of Vuurzee, a top-fermented beer that ages for several months, allowing the bubbles to become finer, much like champagne. Beetroot with spinach-ricotta ravioli might not sound groundbreaking, but the execution makes this dish exceptionally strong, thanks in part to the caramelized version of the beet. Experienced sommelier Saskia Smeenk will join Daalder in early 2024 as maître-sommelier. With her social skills and thorough wine knowledge, she is unquestionably a valuable addition. Initially, we were less enthusiastic about the service: twice we were asked if we wanted the menu explained. Such a lack of coordination should be avoidable at this level. But to give credit where it’s due: the waitstaff recover well as the evening progresses, combining professional expertise with humor and a relaxed demeanor; perfectly suited to an informal setting like this. This year, Daalder rises to position 73.

Chef-owner Dennis Huwaë is anything but conventional. As he himself puts it: “What I enjoy today, I might do differently tomorrow.” He certainly isn’t fond of the ordinary, as evidenced by his trendy spot on Postjesweg in Amsterdam-West. It’s a lively and colorful venue filled with neon lighting, street art, and upbeat loud music. The atmosphere is casual. Most of the guests—trendy—are around thirty and have some disposable income. We start with a quartet of super-delicate amuse-bouches, ranging from salmon nigiri to a crispy bao shrimp. A beautiful opening move featuring exciting flavor contrasts and detailed presentation. Instead of opting for one of the Les Grandes Marques champagnes on the list, we choose a simple yet delicious Aligoté to accompany velvet-soft marinated hamachi, brightened by fresh green apple acidity, sweet mango, salty notes, and a crisp element of seaweed with sesame algae powder and shiso. A feast for the taste buds. Following this indulgence comes spicy octopus with fregola, offering bitter contrasts from red grapefruit and earthy notes from raw, paper-thin shaved mushrooms and house fungi. Very flavorful and exciting on the palate, just a bit too spicy. Fortunately, the 2018 Spätburgunder from Weingut Klumpp does a decent job of taming the lingering heat. The perfectly roasted Anjou squab on the bone stands out as the clear highlight of the afternoon, served with three divine, silky creams of artichoke, spinach, and kumquat. Paired with a fruity and spicy Syrah from Neyers Vineyard 2018. One point of attention concerns the young, largely international staff. There is palpable stress, which makes the visit feel somewhat restless. That could definitely be improved. Rises to 78.

The new location in Amsterdam West is absolutely buzzing. Bold street art adorns the walls, neon lights illuminate the ceiling, and plush round banquette seating for groups sits alongside intimate small tables for couples. Restaurateur and chef Dennis Huwaë, together with head chef Jasper van den Berg and their team, has created a vibrant so-called "Daalder Experience": a three-hour, nine-course gastronomic dinner or a two-hour, seven-course lunch. The substantial wine list is extensive and globally inspired. The amuse-bouches are petite, creative, and feature an Asian flair. We indulge in treats such as Japanese salmon on crispy rice foam and satay ayam on chicken skin. The "perfect egg" with Parmesan, served alongside a salad of morels and green asparagus, lives up to its name and is paired with one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets, the Roter Veltliner. Simply mind-blowing. The octopus with raw artichoke, grapefruit, shiitake mushrooms, and red pepper is accompanied by a sparkling beer. Sea bass pan-fried on the skin with corn and miso compote boasts a remarkably tender texture. The same goes for the roasted squab with chicken liver mousse and turned carrots, served with jasmine rice, kumquat, and ginger. The timing of the wine service needs improvement. On several occasions, our food arrived before the wine was poured, which clearly isn't ideal. Daalder climbs to 83.

Daalder Swingt has since moved from the Jordaan to Amsterdam-West, located in the former vocational school for goldsmiths. Neon lighting adorns the ceiling, street art covers the walls, and there are round booths where groups of eight can dine for hours, alongside small wooden tables with leather-upholstered chairs. The service staff is hip, young, and good-looking, while robust music blasts from the speakers. Guests of all walks of life are shown to their tables and quickly provided with tap water for which a reasonably fixed amount is charged. Between the stiffly starched napkins sits a card listing champagnes, aperitifs, cocktails, and bites available for ordering. Paid amuse-bouches, then. With a spice gin & tonic featuring citrus and cinnamon, we nibble on nigiri salmon glazed with ponzu atop a crispy rice meringue, refreshingly sour kombucha in a bottle, and a softly sweet blackberry tuile with tuna tartare. The tone is set! The first course is a farm egg cooked at 65 degrees for 29 minutes, surrounded by a cloud of kefir and curry foam, accompanied by cèpes and brioche crunch. A classic that, in our opinion, should always remain on the menu. Following that, stunningly good: juicy duck in its own jus, sliced into thick medallions, served with mole (Mexican sauce) featuring orange and almond. On the advice of the knowledgeable sommelier, we pair it with a restrained and pure Italian 2019 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco. A blend of local grapes harvested from volcanic vineyards. Followed by various preparations of blueberry with basil oil, ice cream, and cocoa. The kitchen of owner-chef Dennis Huawe remains consistently excellent. A bit more calm in the service would be desirable. They do rush quite a bit. But once everyone is settled into the new surroundings, that will surely improve completely.

A popular, modern, and atmospherically styled restaurant on the Lindengracht in Amsterdam. Here, settled millennials celebrate life and gladly let themselves be pampered by the gastronomic cuisine of owner-chef Dennis Huwaë. “Corona has made us stronger than ever,” Dennis shares. “Take Thuis met Daalder – a weekly five-course takeaway menu with accompanying instructional videos – which was a success. We really turned it into a celebration.” From Huwaë’s semi-open kitchen come mouthwatering dishes that exude precision, love, and craftsmanship from the first to the last course. The flavors are exciting and complex, and the dishes are presented beautifully on the table. No plate leaves the kitchen until Huwaë has given it a final approving glance or quickly used his tweezers to perfect a garnish. You can enjoy a bite at the long, chic marble-topped bar, and running parallel to it is a dimly lit back room with small tables, comfortable wall benches, and plush armchairs. The service team is young and stylish, expertly providing information about the offerings without over-explaining or falling into repetition. The wine list has been carefully curated by sommelier Mohamed Aous, focusing on small, independent winemakers who produce wine in the most natural way possible, as well as traditional producers who have defined viticulture for generations. All in all, this establishment is a standout on Amsterdam’s culinary circuit!  Lindengracht 90, 1015 KK

Owner-chef Dennis Huwaë exudes an almost serene calm in the small semi-open kitchen of Daalder, where he has been cooking up heavenly dishes since 2016. It was busy on the weekday we visited. The stylishly modern and atmospheric restaurant – featuring, among other things, a long, elegant marble-inlaid dining counter – is packed with affluent millennials who have no qualms about spending a fortune on an evening of gastronomic indulgence. The meal gets off to a flying start: from the very first amuse-bouche to the final sweet treat served with coffee, everything is equally outstanding. The dishes clearly reflect the passion behind their creation, with exciting and daring flavors, and each plate is presented with stunning visual appeal. While enjoying our aperitif—a Marques de Gelida MIM Brut Nature Reserva Cava poured by host and sommelier Tim Grashuis—we are treated to exquisite bite-sized starters such as a sushi rice meringue topped with roasted salmon, glazed in ponzu and dusted with furikake (a Japanese seasoning blend of seaweed, sesame, and dried tuna), alongside a delicate pumpkin crisp stuffed with foie gras, lightly seasoned with five-spice powder. This proves to be a prelude to an exceptionally flavorful and inventive menu, available in either five or seven courses. To start, a ceviche of cobia (a firm white fish) marinated in Amalfi lemon juice, accompanied by a tofu emulsion, coconut foam, a petite quenelle of yellow curry ice cream, and sea urchin. Next, a langoustine served two ways: chopped on a lettuce leaf with crème fraîche, kombucha, and green nori (to be eaten as a wrap), and a juicy pan-seared portion plated with a delicate broccoli cream and roasted onion jus. We pair it with glasses of fruity Pieropan Soave Classico. Slow-cooked cod is served alongside vadouvan oil, a jasmine-based sauce, and a kalamansi vinaigrette. We nearly lick the plates clean. After the pièce de résistance—kamado-grilled Welsh lamb with spinach and pepper cream, accompanied by a robust lamb jus and salted caramel—we are certain of one thing: Daalder deserves a spot in this guide’s Top 100.

Owner-chef Dennis Huwaë has elevated the kitchen to the upper echelons of fine dining. The signature style is a modern blend of classic preparations with a contemporary touch, and, fortunately, plenty of vegetables on the plate. It is even possible here to dine on a seven-course vegetarian menu! The highlight of the evening is the celeriac and leek lasagna served as an intermezzo: a delightful combination of two humble vegetables, nuts, cheese, and citrus for freshness. Truly exceptional. The tuna tartare with beetroot in the starter, along with the two main courses, Wagyu beef and turbot, also speak to the creativity, originality, and craftsmanship in the kitchen. As we increasingly notice, the dessert comprises two courses. First, coconut cream with a granita of kombucha and mango, accompanied by a cup of kombucha tea smoothed with aloe vera. Followed by a stroopwafel ice cream. The eastern flavors paired with the coconut cream are well chosen; the ice cream is blissfully sweet and rich. The service, led by maître Angelique van der Kolk, is professional and meticulous, though it could offer a bit more personal attention. In our rather pricey wine pairing, the overly sweet Riesling with the tuna was a letdown, but thereafter came only excellent wines, with the white Joostenberg Mourvèdre accompanying the turbot proving the best choice of the evening. All in all, an evening at Daalder means high-level dining in a fairly relaxed ambiance, right in the heart of the Jordaan. The bill is steep, but the quality certainly justifies it.