Apicius

High quality cooking

The restaurant of Gaylord and Thorvald de Winter is idyllically situated near the dunes on the Dutch coast. In 2024, Youri van Dijk secured a spot in the top 10 of the National Hennessy Hospitality Award. Youri not only speaks flawlessly about wines but also ensures his guests have an unforgettable evening. We begin with a parade of amuse-bouches from Thorvald’s kitchen. The asparagus soup is exceptionally flavorful. The bitterball filled with king oyster mushrooms (a classic at Apicius) once again proves why it must never leave the menu. Paired with this, we enjoy a refined South African Chardonnay from Bouchard Finlayson (2022). The house champagne, specially bottled for Apicius, is also highly recommended. Our five-course menu begins with a dish that, according to the friendly server, brings 'summer on a plate': a crispy mango cylinder filled with tuna tartare and avocado sauce, finished with a passion fruit vinaigrette. The tuna is butter-soft and melts in the mouth. We pair it with a 2018 white Meursault from Buisson Battault. A sublime match. Next, a generous portion of turbot arrives at the table, served with Flemish-style white asparagus and braised lamb testicles. The kitchen brigade delivers work of the highest caliber here. Next comes perfectly prepared veal cheeks with chanterelles, double-dipped green beans, and a smooth carrot purée. The meat, first pan-seared and then cooked to a perfect medium-rare in the oven, is beautifully complemented by the remaining ingredients. The entire experience confirms what we already knew: at Apicius, everything revolves around craftsmanship, precision, and genuine hospitality. With the dunes just around the corner and a team that clearly takes joy in their work, this is simply a restaurant you will gladly return to.

Chef brothers Thorvald and Gaylord de Winter, with Gaylord serving as host and sommelier, tirelessly continue to deliver top-quality dining at their charming restaurant in the heart of Bakkum. The natural lighting creates a particularly special ambiance, and the generously spaced tables are meticulously set with crisp white linen. The menu is French-inspired, as is the wine list, with an extensive à la carte selection available. The “Menu de l’Essence” is highly recommended. Thorvald prepares a pure cuisine with straightforward techniques, focusing on seasonal local produce. This same purity shines through in Gaylord’s wine selections, which notably feature an impressive array of small-scale producers. Following an aperitif served with crispy pretzels and smoked almonds, we are presented with a series of amuse-bouches, among which the oyster mushroom-stuffed bitterbal is truly masterful. For the starter, there is a radish cannelloni served with beef tartare and vadouvan mayonnaise. The plating is artistic and executed with meticulous attention to detail. The turbot, pan-fried skin-side down and served atop lamb trotters, receives an innovative twist with a grapefruit foam. Paired with it is the Sardinian Vermentino di Lagura, a bracingly saline wine beautifully selected by the young trainee sommelier working under Gaylord. The pièce de résistance is a beautifully prepared veal shank served with red wine jus and fried chanterelles. Hearty and classic. My compliments to the kitchen brigade. Their passion and personalized attention, combined with expertise and flawless service, set a benchmark. A fine establishment.

For many years, a reliable address in the small center of Bakkum. Brothers Thorvald and Gaylord de Winter have managed to create a pleasant restaurant here, where excellent food is prepared based on classic French cuisine. Upon entering, one notices that the dining room, with its rattan chairs, tiled floor, and flower vases on a pillar, appears somewhat dated. But what ends up on the plate is of very high quality. This begins with the vegetarian amuse-bouches, particularly the bitterballen with oyster mushroom, which are truly pleasing to the palate. In the glass, a champagne called Apicius, specially bottled for this establishment. The softly cooked yellowtail kingfish in the starter provides a fresh and flavorful beginning, but unfortunately, the subsequent vegetable tomato risotto, topped with two pimientos de pádron peppers, is really too small a portion. Moreover, the peppers detract from the refined flavor of the al dente risotto. The main course offers juicy roasted veal loin with mushrooms, broad beans, peas, and crispy polenta for one diner, and beautifully baked sea bass with a light shellfish sauce and the same garnishes as the meat for the other. The dessert earns applause. A cylinder of kletskop filled with yogurt mousse and rhubarb compote, topped with a citrus and verbena cream and rhubarb sorbet, is stunningly presented and delightful in taste. The young sommelier on duty pours excellent wines that pair well with the menu; the crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Menetou-Salon is classically suited to the kingfish, while the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from Becco Reale works exceptionally well with the veal. One point for attention: offering a few more vegetarian options on the menu would be a definite plus.

This restaurant by the De Winter brothers is located right near the beach of the picturesque village of Bakkum. Gaylord is a passionate and pleasant host, while Thorvald is a highly skilled chef. It is nearly full every evening, so making a reservation is a must. Trained in classical French cuisine, Thorvald cooks purely and avoids complex preparations. The flavor of an ingredient is paramount in the dishes he creates. Gaylord pairs them with beautiful wines, and his wine list is filled with discoveries from small wineries. It is busy with mostly young guests, and there is a cozy and bustling atmosphere. We start with tuna tataki that has been perfectly grilled for just a short time, wrapped in mustard and sesame seeds. This gives the fish a deliciously sharp flavor. Next, noodles with a generous amount of juicy lobster and tender turbot in a sauce based on shellfish and tarragon. We could easily have had another plate. A glass of 2017 Meursault Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Buisson-Battault completes this course. On another visit, we sample crispy-fried veal sweetbreads, beautifully pink inside, served with green beans à la crème, pistachios, parmesan shavings, marrow apple, and veal jus. Damn, that was excellent! The fabulously wealthy Roman gourmand Apicius would have thoroughly enjoyed himself here. On the threshold of the Top 100.

Apicius is situated in a former 1920s home. The dining room still features several original stained-glass windows, black floor tiles, colorful paintings of harbor views on the walls, and in a niche a vase of multicolored flowers beside a bust of the restaurant’s namesake. Meticulous craftsmanship is what we take away from a visit to Apicius. This applies equally to the culinary talents of head chef Thorvald de Winter and the hospitality of his brother Gaylord. Together, they own this classic establishment in Bakkum, North Holland. We thoroughly enjoy our starters and mains: à la minute marinated salmon with chakalaka spices; Martino tartare and duck liver; sea bass with artichoke cream, parmesan foam, and eggplant caviar; monkfish with crispy vineyard snails. The desserts fall short: the tiger soup filled with homemade advocaat is delicious, but lacks subtlety. Sommelier Pascal Boer pours excellent wines and explains them expertly, yet we fail to grasp his reasoning behind Apicius not offering a wine pairing with à la carte orders. He adds that several fine open bottles are available for him to serve. Whoever knows the difference, let them explain it.

This beautiful restaurant in Bakkum centre takes its name from the wealthy Roman Marcus Gavius Apicius, who lived at the beginning of our era. It is believed that he authored the oldest cookbook in the world. This gastronome spent his entire fortune on fine dining until the very end of his life. At Apicius, owned by Thorvald and Gaylord de Winter, gastronomy takes center stage. Pure flavors form the foundation of the French-Mediterranean and Belgian cuisine, skillfully infused with contemporary touches. Thorvald, however, steers clear of overly complex preparations, opting instead for clear, honest cooking that pays close attention to refined nuances. The result is presented beautifully on the plate. It falls to sommelier Pascal Boer to pair these dishes with pure and authentic wines. His wine list features a remarkable selection of over 300 bottles, highlighting many labels from smaller producers with distinct regional character. All of this proves highly popular with guests, as the restaurant is always bustling. And we certainly don't blame them.

A staple in this guide for years. This time, only praise for the food and wines of chef Thorvald and host-sommelier Gaylord de Winter. Their restaurant, located in the Bakkum center, with its beautiful stained-glass windows, niches with floral arrangements, tiled floors, paintings, and rattan armchairs at set tables, is bursting at the seams tonight with satisfied local patrons; proof positive that the brothers have the business running smoothly. We taste this immediately with our starter: salmon pickled in chakalaka, briefly smoked, served with tempura-fried wild mushrooms and oyster, apple tarragon salsa, and red curry oil. Plus, from Gaylord's impressive wine cellar, an affordable find in the glass: a refreshing, fruity Badischer Grauburgunder Wassmer 2017. The Austrian Grüner Veltliner Gottschelle also provides solid accompaniment for the other entrée, beef tartare made from ox tenderloin. Juicy meat, coarsely chopped with Amsterdam pickle, capers, and Indian cress. Topped with duck liver, caramelized with muscovado sugar, and airy pommes soufflées with anchovy. A visually stunning dish where sour, sweet, and salty compete for dominance. Turbot forms the main course. Coated with mustard, braised in the oven. A beautiful portion cooked to perfection, served on a mirror of hollandaise and basil oil, topped with tomato salsa, and enriched with poached button mushrooms and new potatoes in tarragon cream. The host also pairs it with an excellent glass of Ab Vinea Doni by Riccardo Falchini 2015. A Tuscan white made from Vernaccia and a touch of Chardonnay: elegant, full-bodied, and creamy. We conclude this classic French dining feast with jasmine tea crème brûlée and orange and clove cream ice cream. And leave Bakkum with a deeply satisfied feeling. Despite this, Apicius drops one place to 71.

This intimate, living-room-style restaurant in the old village center of Bakkum owes its name to the Roman citizen Marcus Gavius Apicius, who is believed to have written the oldest cookbook in the world. His passion lay in gastronomy. During our visit, we enjoy excellent dishes from owner-chef Thorvald de Winter and delightful wines from Gaylord de Winter, though the bottles are not presented at our table. The amuse-bouches—a phyllo pastry horn filled with egg and truffle mousse, a cauliflower soup with finely crisped bacon bits and vadouvan oil, plus an oxtail bitterbal—are, while not particularly groundbreaking, well-seasoned. We opt for the à la carte menu. Beef tenderloin tartare and duck liver with muscovado sugar, a few anchovy strips, Amsterdam sour pickles, and Indian cherry yield a beautifully dressed tartare topped with a slice of duck liver and caramelized sugar. The plating is elegant and meticulous. It is paired with Genius Loci made from Fiano grapes from Sannio (Terre Stregate, 2016). For the main course, we taste oven-roasted beef tenderloin with a bonne femme garnish in the house style, a slightly syrupy red wine jus, and roasted garlic. Beautiful flavors, excellently paired with a dark red Chianti Rufina Villa di Colognole, 2011 from Tuscany. Turbot is served with tomato, vegetables, tarragon cream, new potatoes, hollandaise sauce, a basil crust, and Ghent mustard. Accompanied by a glass of South African wine Rijk’s Touch of Oak, 2016, made from Chenin Blanc grapes. The dessert is tasty but slightly too rich: a lime croute with Italian foam, Japanese wineberry, yogurt cream ice cream, and lime oil. Due to a lack of innovation, inconsistent hospitality, and varying kitchen performance, Apicius drops to 70th place on the Lekker Top-100.

It's windy outside, but inside we are warmly welcomed and almost immediately, head chef Thorvald de Winter brings delicious amuse-bouches of eel, lobster, and turbot. A pleasant welcome in this restaurant in the old village center. The marinated salmon that starts our menu pleases both the eye and the taste buds. The fish steaks stand upright on a bed of finely chopped apple. Topped with a crispy fried oyster and spring onions in tempura. Finished with green herbs from their own garden. Host-sommelier Gaylord de Winter pours a Mâcon-Fuissé from Domaine de Pouilly (2015) to accompany it, which also pairs well with my companion's dish: beef tartare and duck liver with caramelized cane sugar, anchovy strips, Amsterdam pickle, and gooseberry. Delicious! Next, the 'Veenweide' roast lamb is beautifully cooked medium-rare, and the house jus with puffed garlic pairs well with the bold yet smooth flavor of the Tempranillo grapes in the dark red La Planta (Ribera del Duero, Arzuaga 2015). On the other plate, turbot that unfortunately lacks the promised grilled flavor. The side dish of green asparagus, morels, double-peeled garden beans, peas, carrots, braised spring onion, button mushrooms, and pommes soufflées is fine, but the pairing with the glass of Soave (Fattori Motto Piane, 2015) is less successful. This Italian wine is too light and poorly chosen given the fish and the overly heavy side dish, which is identical to that served with the lamb. Fortunately, the traditional Chilean dessert ponderaciones makes up for it. A delicious waffle with vanilla ice cream and orange sauce. In the glass: Australian Bimbadgen 'Riverina' made from Semillon grapes. We would like to see a bit more creativity at Apicius. Drops a spot to 50.