Zuid by Zarzo

Right in the heart of Eindhoven, literally just around the corner from its big brother Zarzo, we find Zuid by Zarzo. The interior is sleek with black-and-white accents and an open kitchen that immediately catches the eye. At Zuid, simple and honest dishes take center stage in a relaxed atmosphere, featuring French and international influences, complemented by fine wines carefully matched by skilled sommelier Jimmy Szalai for the evening of our visit. The menu features many classic dishes, bites, and separately orderable side dishes, as well as a four- or five-course chef's menu. We start with a glass of house cava from Jan Vidal in Penedès, accompanied by a serving of pata negra. Dark sourdough bread follows shortly after, served with a fresh chive dip seasoned with pimentón. The starter is a classic: crispy baked Peking duck with thin pancakes, cucumber, spring onion, and hoisin sauce. The duck is crisp, and the portion size is generous. Jimmy pairs it with a beautiful Pinot Noir from Jérôme Chezeaux in Burgundy. For the main course, we have beef tenderloin with pan-fried duck liver, accompanied by a pepper sauce and a small bowl of fries with homemade mayonnaise that is slightly too tangy. The cooking is excellent, and the Mencía from Raúl Pérez in Bierzo complements it beautifully with elegant dark fruit notes. For dessert, we have sticky toffee: a caramel cake with pear, spice ice cream, and crumble. A rich Moscatel from Bacalhôa in Setúbal is poured generously and proves to be a perfect match. Service is led by hostess Daniëlle van der Staaij and host John Berkelmans. The welcome is warm, but during peak hours there can sometimes be long waiting times. All in all, Zuid by Zarzo absolutely convinces with its classic dishes, excellent wine selection, and relaxed ambiance. A place we would gladly return to.

Last year we spoke highly of the 'little brother' of the main Zarzo establishment. This year we are critical. The waitstaff could use some refreshing on their wine knowledge and neglect to explain the dishes. When serving the artichoke, it would perhaps be useful to explain how one should properly consume it. Fortunately, the absence of head chef Stevie de Weert this time around goes unnoticed on the plate. The tuna pizza remains a popular starter. The menu features many of the same dishes as the previous year. They are skillfully prepared by the kitchen brigade right in front of the guests. The sparkling starter wine has also remained: the 'Honor' cava from Penedès, Spain. It is difficult to make a choice from the extensive wine list. The wine list offers bold and unconventional selections. Unfortunately, they all come with hefty markups. The turbot with pappardelle, lemon, lamb kidneys, and foamy vadouvan sauce is one of the mains that could benefit from a bit more daring execution. Seasonal offerings include Brabant-style asparagus, while traditionalists can opt for classics such as beef cheeks, bone-in rib steak, and Dover sole. Side dishes are charged separately. For dessert, we are served a lemon tart with torched meringue and shaved lime zest. It proves no easy task to play second fiddle to the flagship location. Yet we would gladly see a forward-driving 'paso doble'. After all, standing still is moving backward.

Not far from his fine-dining restaurant Zarzo, Adrian Zarzo Habraken also runs ‘het kleine broertje’ Zuid by Zarzo. Chef Stevie de Weert holds the culinary reins here. Honest and pure cooking is the guiding principle, and the menu offers a wealth of delights ranging from a generously filled Niçoise salad, through paper-thin crepes with Peking duck, to a hearty plate of paella with prawns, squid, and aioli. There is also a selection of small bites, among which we choose thinly sliced Ibérico pata negra and a mini pizza topped with tuna and wasabi. The latter is especially worth the detour! We pair it with a lovely Jan Vidal cava from Spain’s Penedès region. For the first course, we have grilled tuna slices served with a basil cream over salmorejo (a cold Spanish tomato soup) flavored with mint, olive oil, basil, and red pepper. Our taste buds are working overtime; it is so delicious and intensely flavorful. A generous pour of the 2021 Riesling from Austrian winery Pfaffl accompanies it. It’s right up our alley. Next comes an entrecôte cooked in butter and malt, served in its own jus with green asparagus and artichoke cream, paired with a well-chilled 2020 French Pinot Noir from Justin Girardin. A perfect match. For dessert, we enjoy Strawberries Romanoff featuring fresh strawberries, meringue, and vanilla ice cream. It is simply presented in a glass bowl. An absolute classic. It is accompanied by a dessert wine that isn't overly sweet: the MR Mountain Wine Moscatel from Telmo Rodríguez in Málaga, Spain. Kudos to the host, Jhon Berkelmans, who takes his craft seriously and ensures every guest has a wonderful time. Simply outstanding!

Right around the corner from his fine dining restaurant Zarzo lies Zuid by Adrian Zarzo, which has been entirely under the maestro’s direction since July 2022. When the weather is nice, it’s wonderful to sit on the terrace, though always at carefully set tables dressed in linen, adorned with fresh flowers, and featuring gleaming crockery, cutlery, and glassware. Zarzo simply doesn’t do anything less. You can choose from a menu packed with bites, such as Iberico bitterballen or a crispy pizza with fresh tuna. There’s also a menu offering à la carte selections and set menus. Specials include sea bass baked in a salt crust or côte à l’os (marbled meat from the rib section). Want just two starters? No problem at all. The guest calls the shots. Soon we’re sipping a lovely cava when a modest bowl of delicious bread studded with nuts and seeds arrives, served with a soft chive spread. The first course is a generous plate of hand-cut salmon tartare, followed by a piece of skin-seared sea bass with hollandaise sauce atop roasted yellow zucchini and a grilled artichoke stuffed with antipasti, where preserved lemon elevates the dish to new heights. Simply delightful. For the main course, host Jan Groot pours a glass of slightly chilled, fruity, and supple 2018 Gómez Cruzado Rioja, with notes of cherry and vanilla, alongside a juicy cut of veal accompanied by fennel topped with caramelized onions and mushrooms. While sipping hot cortados, we indulge in a deliciously sticky chocolate dessert. Life is good in the Brabant countryside. Welcome to Lekker!