Onder de Linden

It is a sensory feast when you dine at the charming restaurant Onder de Linden, home to owner-chef Stefan Klein Nijenhuis, located in an old converted farmhouse with a thatched roof. We sit comfortably in armchairs by Groningen designer Melle Koot, at tables draped in leather sheets that are generously spaced. The kitchen, led by executive chef Falk van Essen, focuses on sustainable gastronomy and distinctive ingredients, resulting in outstanding flavor combinations. Every wine and food pairing is surprising and of unprecedented culinary caliber. No dairy is used, beef is not on the menu, and numerous fermented elements await tasting. The welcome bites set the tone immediately: beetroot with ponzu, piccalilli foam, and beetroot liquorice bursts with umami, while hedgehog mushroom foam with truffle coulis and a 64-degree egg holds its own. Freshly baked sourdough bread served with homemade plant-based butter deserves applause. A set menu offers up to eight courses. Razor clam tartare with roasted Jerusalem artichoke, lime leaf, paper-thin sliced green apple, pickled celery, seaweed cream, and razor clam and lemon juice is extremely refined, with flavors perfectly harmonized. The mineral German Silvaner Rainer Sauer from 2023 VDP Erste Lage, with its soft, round acidity, pairs seamlessly with it. Leave that to hostess and gifted sommelier Caroline de Vries. The braised duck breast main course rests on al dente ravioli stuffed with leg meat, accompanied by a Chinese-style shellfish sauce, all bathed in an aromatic poultry fond flavored with star anise, cinnamon, sesame, and chive oil. We finish with chocolate mousse and pumpkin with pumpkin seed praline, sea buckthorn berry ice cream drizzled with a sea buckthorn berry and pumpkin seed oil vinaigrette, and a garam masala sugar sculpture. We are overwhelmed by such innovation. Meanwhile, the menu has become even more sustainable, local, and accessible by eliminating luxury imported products and placing regional ingredients at the forefront. Score rises to 51.

In het sfeervolle dorpje Aduard, in een prachtig rijksmonument uit 1735, vind je Restaurant Onder de Linden, geleid door patron-cuisinier Steven Klein Nijenhuis. Het restaurant biedt sinds 2016 een verfijnde culinaire ervaring. Met een stijlvolle inrichting en een ontspannen sfeer is het de perfecte plek om te genieten van zijn inventieve Franse keuken, gecombineerd met oosterse invloeden. Gasten worden verrast met een meergangen seizoensmenu zonder menukaart, waarbij alleen de beste lokale ingrediënten worden gebruikt. Steven en souschef Falk van Essen zijn al enkele jaren bezig om stap voor stap tot grote verduurzaming binnen Onder de Linden te komen. Zo serveren ze geen rund- en varkensvlees en melkproducten en laten ze andere diersoorten die onder druk staan met rust. Het interieur van het restaurant heeft de afgelopen 2 jaren ook een upgrade gehad. Leren tafelkleden, nieuwe stoelen gemaakt door de Groningse ontwerper Melle Koot en een aantal grote planten en muurschilderingen maken het een samenhangend geheel. We vangen aan met oogstrelende amuses vergezeld met een heerlijk glas Thiénot champagne. De parade van amuses geeft direct de signatuur van de chef af. Van de uitgebreide wijnkaart, die overigens ook meer dan 60 speciaalbieren bevat, kiezen wij voor een frisse droge, krachtige en geconcentreerde Zind-Humbrecht Zind 2019 met geuren van rijpe peren en citroen. Deze kan prima de eerste gangen van het menu begeleiden, mede door haar lange afdronk. Mocht je liever gaan voor een bijpassend wijnarrangement, dan is dat ook een optie. Speciale vermelding voor het prachtig servies waarop de gerechten geserveerd worden, zoals kort op de Japanse BBQ gegrilde langoustine uit de Noordzee. Een lust voor het oog en de smaakpapillen. En het leuke is dat de chef af en toe zelf aan tafel komt om het een en ander toe te lichten. We vervolgen met een heerlijk complexe La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza tempranillo 2012 die uitsluitend in goede jaren op de markt gebracht wordt. Deze sluit naadloos aan bij het perfect geserveerde lam. Aandachtspuntje voor de bediening. Die mag iets minder in het keurslijf, iets meer kennis hebben én iets minder op de automatische piloot werken. Ook betalen we wel een hoge prijs voor de avond uit, de prijs- kwaliteit is op het randje van acceptabel. Daarnaast zijn de smaken van sommige creaties net iets te subtiel en daardoor af en toe wat vlak. Echter missen wij de rund- en varkensvlees en melkproducten absoluut niet in het seizoensmenu en kunnen wij onderschrijven dat dit zeker een weg is die niet alleen past bij de filosofie van het team maar ook bij de smaak van de toekomst. Zakt mede door dringen aan de top enkele plaatsen naar 56.

Housed in a magnificent national heritage building dating back to 1735, the interior is chic and stylish, featuring beautifully set tables, modern crockery, and classic gleaming glassware. The walls are adorned with contemporary, colorful artwork. The atmosphere is thoroughly relaxed, filled with a cozy buzz in the fully occupied dining room. Steven has adapted his cooking style to help reduce his environmental footprint, eliminating both beef and dairy from his menu. Endangered species such as eel and tuna have also been banned. His culinary foundation remains rooted in French cuisine, utilizing locally sourced ingredients. There is no fixed menu; instead, guests can specify their preferred number of courses. The wine list is breathtaking and a true feast for wine enthusiasts. Want a special beer? The selection is vast, drawn from a dedicated beer list featuring over sixty varieties. The dinner begins with a plant-based dish of thinly sliced king oyster mushroom stuffed with intensely flavored, house-fermented sauerkraut, accompanied by a panna cotta of coconut, apple, and boemboe, garnished with green apple spheres, vadouvan, and peanuts. It presents a fascinating flavor profile that balances sweet and soft notes against bright acidity and a hint of lightly sparkling oriental flair. This is followed by rose-roasted Dutch lamb served with morels, artichoke, tomato, and a rich béarnaise sauce. At the table, a robust lamb jus is poured alongside, and on a side plate comes a brioche roll stuffed with lamb. A powerful, full-bodied red wine from Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher: Zweigelt Trocken 2017 perfectly complements the dish. The finale features sugared almonds, crispy lemon and meringue shards, airy passion fruit foam, coconut yogurt and blood orange ice cream, along with passion fruit curd. Under the linden trees, it earns a heartfelt round of applause because everything here is simply spot on. The northern region should be incredibly proud of such craftsmanship. It drops eight places to rank 56th.

It’s nearly full on the weekday evening of our visit, and a relaxed atmosphere fills the inn. The decor is light and elegant with plenty of art on the walls, including paintings of the Groningen countryside by Huib van der Stelt. Owner-chef Steven Klein Nijenhuis and his head chef Falk van Essen continue to surpass themselves. They serve a beautiful, idiosyncratic cuisine rooted in French tradition with Eastern influences. The amuse-bouche parade presents visually striking dishes that are each bursting with flavor. In particular, the lacquered octopus with papaya-root salad, rendang sauce, and kefir foam is sophisticated and whets the appetite for what follows. Our expectations are more than rewarded. There’s no set menu here; we simply indicate how many courses we would like. Alongside an extensive wine list and packages with or without alcoholic beverages, there is a beer list featuring no fewer than sixty-six choices. The harder fish tartare with tomato and lemon thyme as a starter is beautifully balanced, as is the intermezzo: cod wrapped in nori, Zeeland flat oyster and lamb ear, a seaweed crisp, watercress cream, hollandaise sauce with yuzu and furikake. For the main course, perfectly cooked loin of lamb served with a wonton stuffed with minced lamb, zucchini with feta and herbs, eggplant cream, white asparagus, and lamb jus with tarragon. It is paired with a wonderful wine: the 2018 Castel del Monte 'Melograno' Santa Lucia, made from the rare native Nero di Troia grape. We finish off with an outstanding cheese board featuring no fewer than seven Dutch cheese varieties, curated by Joost van Nijnatten from Kaasatelier. Frugality is a word they don’t know here. Finally, a big thumbs up for sommelier and hostess Esmee Timmer. A pleasant presence at the table, highly knowledgeable, and she pours beautiful wines while enthusiastically describing them. By the way: overnight stays are also an option. Score rises to 59.

The walls are adorned with plenty of art, the space is bright and stylishly decorated with warm earthy tones, featuring beautiful white linen on the tables and comfortable modern leather armchairs. Plus, friendly and pleasantly courteous staff. And a kitchen team that crafts wonderful, surprising, and flavorful dishes at a high level using exceptionally good ingredients. A team that doesn't shy away from bold combinations, but knows exactly what they're doing. For us, this isn't classic cuisine dressed up in a new coat, nor French cuisine with a personal twist: it's the kitchen of owner-chef Stefan Klein Nijenhuis. There is no menu card, only a multi-course surprise menu. The wine list is highly extensive and organized by country of origin, wine region, sub-region, and château. Many wines are available by the (half) glass. Also a nice touch: there is a beer list, a hobby of the chef and his sous-chef Falk van Essen that has taken on a life of its own. After stunning amuse-bouches like a panna cotta made with sambai (Japanese rice vinegar) with cucumber and soy pearls, and a dorade tartare with green apple and potato foam, the first course arrives. We savor the scallops—one fried and one poached in a marinade—served with a refined mini salad of cauliflower and walnut, seaweed cream, and a quenelle of tonburi (land caviar). Thrilling and packed with flavor. Even the classic, reimagined—a generous portion of turbot with Zoutkampergaat prawns, fennel salad, and butter sauce—earns applause. The Lower Austrian white wine Josef Dockner “Joe” Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2019 brings it all together. A top destination. Enters the Top 100 at number 69.

Owner-chef Steven Klein Nijenhuis has been running restaurant Onder de Linden since 2016. Just a ten-minute drive from the city of Groningen lies this beautiful national monument dating back to 1735. Onder de Linden houses a highly atmospheric restaurant decorated in light tones, along with five luxury rooms on the upper floor offering comfortable accommodation. The chef’s cuisine is classically French, yet exciting creations and flavor combinations inspired by the Far East are certainly not shunned. Fish, crustaceans, and shellfish are sourced as much as possible from the Wadden Sea, vegetables come from their own kitchen garden, and they collaborate with local suppliers. Every dish served is prepared in-house, and the house-baked bread alone is worth making a special detour for. Guests can choose from a four- to six-course menu, and dietary requirements are gladly accommodated. The wine list boasts both classic and contemporary selections, complemented by craft beers and an extensive range of non-alcoholic beverages. This venue is not only a wonderful destination for an evening of culinary indulgence, but it also makes for a perfect addition to a day trip to Groningen, complete with dinner and an overnight stay in its charming atmosphere.