't Nonnetje

Excellent cooking

Located in a former fisherman's cottage on the Vischmarkt in Harderwijk, it has since been transformed into an atmosphere with worldly allure. The stylishly furnished dining room exudes calm and spaciousness, and everything is designed to allow guests to fully enjoy the high-quality gastronomy offered by SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft and his team. His cooking style is French classical, but it is enlivened with Portuguese influences, the country where his wife's roots lie. Owner and host Robert-Jan Nijland soon brings our aperitif, a glass of Bauchet 'Contraste' Blanc de Noir champagne, along with the menu featuring à la carte choices – including vegetarian options – alongside set menus. The wine list features many European labels with an emphasis on Portugal. To start, the chef's signature dish: a goose liver terrine with smoked eel, beetroot preparations, and 25-year-aged aceto balsamico. What a wonderful combination this is. The only drawback is the portion size: the slice is served too sparingly, which is hardly acceptable given the surcharge. For the main course, crispy pan-fried sweetbreads are served with soft leek mousse, cooked leek, spring onion, and fresh morels stuffed with leek cream. Bold flavors that are perfectly balanced. In the glass, a beautiful golden-yellow Terres Dorées Chardonnay by Jean-Paul Brun. Round and full with great finesse. The 'Arroz de Pato', or roast duck prepared on the carcass with Portuguese rice, confit leg, blood orange gel, leek vinaigrette, and poultry jus, also earns its applause. SVH Sommelier Edger Groeneveld pairs it with a Portuguese João Pato Aka Duckman 2022. Classy. 't Nonnetje is thriving. It climbs a few places to number 18.

't Nonnetje, at the historic Vischmarkt in Harderwijk, nestles in a monumental fisherman's cottage and stands out with a contemporary, intimate interior. The Portuguese influence of chef Michel van der Kroft permeates his culinary craftsmanship, ...

We miss out; during our visit, both SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft and owner and host Robert-Jan Nijland are absent, and the latter will especially be missed throughout the evening. We are warmly welcomed into the elegantly appointed restaurant by Thijs Elbrink, who embodies friendliness itself. The rest of the black brigade comes across as somewhat lackluster. We begin with a crisp sparkling wine from Domaine Bauchet and a delightful amuse of pie tee (a thin, crispy cup) featuring black sesame and Korean chili paste. We choose Michel’s Master Chef menu, and the craftsmanship leaps off every plate. Closely seared toro, the belly cut of tuna, paired with avocado preparations and a passion fruit and jalapeño vinaigrette, opens the meal. Refreshingly light with a gentle kick. Next, perfectly cooked, ultra-fresh red mullet served with bolinho de bacalhau, revealing the master’s fondness for Portugal (his wife, Maria do Céu, traces her roots there). SVH Wine Master Edger Groeneveld pours a lovely glass of Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc. After the Iberico dim sum with an extraordinary carrot sauce, the kitchen shows its peak form. A crust-baked roulade of polder chicken from Lelystad, accompanied by shiitake duxelles and a stuffing made from the loin, sits beside a pâté of the leg and liver with a piccalilly cream. Drizzled with a jus made from the carcasses and skin. In the glass, a perfect Spätburgunder. What flavors and pure perfection! Following exquisite desserts, heavenly pastel de nata arrives with a good espresso. Despite Michel’s absence, the kitchen displays pure craftsmanship, though the black brigade could come across as a bit more hospitable. Especially at this level, because Michel’s gastronomic cuisine deserves optimal presentation. It ranks 19th this year.

The interior of 't Nonnetje has undergone a refurbishment and the result is very elegant. Calm has been introduced through beautiful amber hues, which pair perfectly with the dark grey curtains, chairs, and sofas. The focal point is the sleek bar, behind which the bottles and glasses are discreetly tucked away. On the exterior facade hangs the new and subtle logo featuring three Ns representing Nonnetje. The cooking style of SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft remains unchanged. With his team, he continues to deliver high-end gastronomy where Portuguese influences, his wife having her roots there, play a major role. Owner and host Robert-Jan Nijland, who is not shy about being proud of his establishment and team, quickly brings a glass of rich and fruity Bauchet champagne and a greeting from the kitchen in the form of delicious spicy pai tee from Singapore, a crispy black sesame pastry shell filled with kimchi and red pepper. We choose Michel's Master Chef Menu from the menu and start with mackerel accompanied by avocado, cucumber, snow peas, jalapeño pepper, and passion fruit. Delicately and exquisitely plated on gorgeous new crockery. Sommelier and SVH Wine Master Edger Groeneveld pours a Muscat from the Dolomites by house Pfefferer to accompany it, sublime. The signature dish, goose liver terrine topped with smoked eel, 25-year aged aceto balsamico, and surrounded by beetroot preparations, remains an absolute winner. And the accompanying Pinot Gris from Justin Boxler in Alsace pairs perfectly with it. The main course is slowly roasted Irish beef tenderloin with a robust Madeira sauce, and the accompanying ravioli stuffed with oxtail is, in one word, divine. What a craftsman Michel is. Another round of applause for Edger, who serves a glass of Quinta de Arcossó from Portugal with it. With the coffee, we enjoy a ladle with heavenly mud, the best pastel de nata tasted so far, a pomegranate and lemongrass bonbon, and a kumquat macaron. All of this comes with a hefty price tag, but it is worth every cent. Finally, a sincere tip: turn the beat music down a few notches; it would do the calm and atmosphere good. The rating rises to 18.

The ever good-natured SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft has been delivering outstanding cuisine at 't Nonnetje in Harderwijk for over fifteen years now, successfully drawing guests from across the country. Comfort and luxury are palpable in the understatedly chic ambiance, with tables meticulously set in white linen, elegant crockery, and fine glassware. Owner and host Robert Jan Nijland promptly serves the aperitif alongside a first greeting from the kitchen: a phyllo pastry cup filled with Dutch shrimp mousse seasoned with red pepper. Michel’s kitchen distinguishes itself by blending classic French cuisine with Portuguese influences. While this is hardly a conventional combination, Van der Kroft navigates it effortlessly. His partner’s Portuguese roots have given him an intimate command of the cuisine, resulting in delightfully unexpected creations. Carabineiro, the Portuguese deep-sea prawn, stands out in a deep crimson hue on the plate, surrounded by droplets of garden herb and chorizo oil. Its robust flavor is tempered by artichoke and bacalhau. On the opposite side rests a rich, beautifully marbled goose liver terrine, adorned with eel and crowned with a dollop of twenty-five-year-old aged balsamic vinegar. Surrounding it are preparations of red beet, achieving a perfect sweet-and-sour balance. No adjustments needed; this dish deserves a permanent place on the menu. Next comes Canadian lobster served with tomatada, sugar snap peas, tomato vinaigrette, and a beurre blanc sauce. Cooked to perfection, the rich yet potent beurre blanc is expertly balanced by the vinaigrette. The Tournedos Rossini is succulent, topped with a slice of pan-fried goose liver and layered with shavings of black truffle. The intense jus finds its counterpart in cabbage and apricot. Sommelier and SVH Wine Master Edger Groeneveld pairs it with a Portuguese blend, the Quinta de Arcosso Riserva—a thrilling accompaniment. We conclude with Dessert Exotique, presented as a three-part composition. Sweet, sour, a touch of heat (Thai curry ice cream), and refreshing. Elegant and delicious. Bravo to the kitchen brigade. They masterfully combine top-tier expertise with an unpretentious and relaxed approach. Score rises to 25.

Those familiar with Portuguese cuisine know that it is cooked honestly and purely, using only fresh ingredients. SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft adds an extra dimension to this at 't Nonnetje, located by the fish market in Harderwijk, and that addition is a brilliant display of creativity. Van der Kroft knows Portuguese cuisine better than anyone else; it is his wife’s homeland. Owner and passionate host Robert Jan Nijland gives Michel and his team—including sous-chefs Merwin de Lange and Marco Helsloot—complete freedom to showcase their creations infused with Portuguese influences. We delight in a refined fish stew featuring perfectly cooked red mullet served over artistically crafted squid ink tagliatelle. It is surrounded by roasted peppers, fennel, and a highly aromatic fish jus, finished at the table with a drizzle of Portuguese olive oil. Equally beautiful and flavorful is the beef tenderloin with a fried egg, accompanied by roasted wild stem broccoli and, served separately, a crispy potato waffle topped with a savory beef bonbon filled with steak tartare and laurel-infused jus. The friendly maître-sommelier and SVH Wine Master Edger Groeneveld pairs the meal with a generous pour of Borie la Vitarėle, drawn with expert knowledge. On pleasant days, guests can dine beautifully on the well-tended terrace, and with a little imagination, Portugal feels remarkably close. Such exceptional quality combined with heartfelt hospitality points to only one conclusion: 't Nonnetje scores 00 in this guide’s Top-100.

Let’s get straight to the point: where can you find the absolute best Portuguese pastéis de nata? You’ll find them at SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft’s place. In Harderwijk. This irresistible little pastry from the homeland of his charming wife has since become his signature dish, and he bakes them fresh every day. However, we would do Michel a disservice by only highlighting this treat, because his cooking style offers much more than that alone. In the atmospheric and intimate restaurant owned and hosted by Robert-Jan Nijland on the historic Vischmarkt, dishes are prepared with great expertise and passion. Here you will find an artisanal cuisine built on a classical foundation, seamlessly integrated with Portuguese influences in an original and distinctive way. It is a kitchen that pays close attention to classic techniques such as terrines and other dishes from the era of Auguste Escoffier, though presented in a modern manner. There is also a strong focus on vegetable preparations and vegetarian dishes. Owner and host Robert-Jan Nijland: “Awareness is something the lockdown brought us; we stayed true to ourselves. I maintained my own calm and moved forward effectively. The team came through it well, and everyone is still here. We now pay even more attention to details and service standards. Our goal has been reinforced: we want to be, and are ready for, the top 10 in the Netherlands.” All dishes from the kitchen of Chef Van der Kroft and Sous-Chef Merwin de Lange are balanced, refined in flavor, and beautifully plated before being served tableside by a professional black-uniformed brigade. There is plenty to choose from: Michel’s Masterchef Menu featuring his best dishes from the past fourteen years, Menu De Verleiding, a selection of small bites, Menu Verleiding Botanica consisting of vegetarian dishes, and à la carte options. Many dishes feature a nod to Portugal, Michel’s second homeland, which is also reflected on the wine list. Host and SVH Wine Master Edger Groeneveld, together with sommelier Thijs Elbrink, are happy to provide extensive advice on pairings. Fun fact: the restaurant has its own flower and herb garden. It is excellent, it is delightful in this beautiful corner of the Veluwe. A top establishment!

Located on the picturesque Harderwijk fish market, in an old corner building. 't Nonnetje occupies the back room, the central area with the bar, and an attached terrace at the front. Stylishly furnished with an extremely pleasant atmosphere. SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft creates exquisite dishes in his kitchen, served by a professional waitstaff in black uniforms under the inspiring leadership of owner Robert-Jan Nijland. We are immediately impressed by an amuse-bouche featuring various legumes with Dutch cherries, cherry gel, snap pea ice cream, and puffed broad beans with legume foam. For the starter comes house-smoked salmon with ice cream and a goat yogurt vinaigrette. A sublime execution of a classic, elevated by a sublime selection from SVH Wine Master Edger Groeneveld: Lias Finas made from the Albariño grape (Attis, Rías Baixas, 2017). The intermezzo is a carrot-based dim sum, filled with finely sliced loin from Iberian pork and topped with carrot cream. Served with a spicy carrot jus and sweet-and-sour daikon radish with black garlic. Again visually stunning, technically flawless, and beautifully paired with a chilled Italian red wine from the native Ravenna Centesimino grape (Morini Faenza, 2017), poured by sommelier Thijs Elbrink. As the main course, various preparations of polder chicken follow, served with morel jus and grilled cauliflower cream. A beautiful dish, fantastically presented, with the liver served separately in a tube alongside small toasts. And once again, a chilled red wine accompanies it: Mencía de Valtuille (José García, 2017) from Spain's Bierzo region. An excellent pairing. Finally, a true "dame blanche," consisting exclusively of white ingredients such as almond ice cream, white peach, lemon sorbet, white currants, and lemon meringue drizzled with a vanilla oil vinaigrette. Delicious. 't Nonnetje is a top establishment and rises to a score of 29.

't Nonnetje is the culinary beacon of owner Robert-Jan Nijland on the gastronomic Vischmarkt in Harderwijk, with the decorated and 'Portugal-married' SVH Master Chef Michel van der Kroft behind the pans. With a glass of cava, we enjoy his gazpacho bonbons and an asparagus creation with egg and a light hollandaise in this restyled restaurant, which features lighter colors among other touches. Right on the mark: we taste pure craftsmanship. The starter is smoked Scottish salmon with 'slow escargots', served by host Thijs Elbrink alongside various beans such as snap beans, butter beans, pods, and a thyme mousse. The accompanying haricots verts ice cream is pronounced and pure in flavor. Just like the matching golden-yellow Lias Finas made from Albariño grapes from Rías Baixas Attis, 2016. A good choice by sommelier Edger Groeneveld. The middle course consists of ravioli with Portuguese sheep's cheese, served with mini courgettes, cremini mushrooms, wild spinach, sweet-and-sour red cabbage, and sage butter. Edger pours a dry white Conciso from the Niepoort port house. A beautiful interplay between the robust cheese and the delicious wood-aged wine blend. We continue with Dutch buck goat presented as a slice of neck and shoulder sausage, alongside a chop, a bitterballin filled with stewed meat, and two fillet slices. Surprising preparations are presented with asparagus, celery root cream, May bulbs, crispy goat milk with cumin seeds, and a goat jus with chamomile. A Bourgogne Passetoutgrains from Pierre d’Heilly & Martine Huberdeau 2017 is poured alongside. After a small selection from the Dutch and Portuguese cheese offerings, we conclude our dinner with strawberries accompanied by bedstraw, strawberry coulis, Swiss cream, and red wine sorbet. And a glass of Franconian Scheurebe Spätlese 'Stettener Stein' Am Stein, 2015. Priced firmly at 33.

SVH Masterchef Michel van der Kroft celebrates his 10th anniversary with a menu featuring four of his signature dishes. Naturally, we order it. Host-sommelier Robert-Jan Nijland pours a fine glass of Windisch Weiss (Werther, 2016) from Rheinhessen alongside palate-pleasing amuse-bouches, and then the chef really lets loose. Goose liver terrine, beautifully marbled, encircled with eel and centered with 25-year-old aceto balsamico, accompanied by preparations of beet, orange, and plum. The terrine is pleasantly rich, much like the eel, and the soft acidity of the garnish pairs fantastically. Paired with a ten-year-old Vouvray boasting a deep, mellow character and a long finish. A wonderful combination. Next comes a Portuguese deep-sea prawn, perfectly cooked, resting on bacalhau and surrounded by artichoke and droplets of oil infused with garden herbs and chorizo. Absolutely delicious. Once again paired with an unconventional wine choice: white Navazos-Niepoort made from Palomino grapes from Jerez. Ripe sherry-like notes blend seamlessly with a touch of salinity. The third course features bone-in roasted Anjou pigeon with broad beans, blackcurrants, and a jus of pigeon and beans flavored with savory. The leg is caramelized separately, the breast fillet seared, a half heart placed beside it, along with a small meatball stew. Simplicity, intensity, and refinement vie for prominence here, resulting in a rarely seen masterpiece. A fresh red wine from the Armagnac region, offering berry notes and minerality, once again proves to be an original companion. The dessert is elegantly presented with exotic fruit, Thai curry ice cream, edible flowers, and passion fruit coulis. Fresh and gently tart flavors are complemented by a glass of Loupiac. With coffee, we are further delighted by 'heavenly mud' and homemade pastries, and only then does the culinary feast come to a close. What passion, what craftsmanship. 't Nonnetje rises one place to number 33.