De Groene Lantaarn

Excellent cooking

Nestled in the middle of a Dutch landscape that resembles a painting by an Old Master lies restaurant De Groene Lantaarn. The welcome is warm and considerate, and SVH Master Hostess Cindy Borger is a hostess through and through. Genuinely curious and attentive to all her guests, she also boasts exemplary wine knowledge and a fluid way of explaining it. Here you feel like a true guest, in a relaxed setting with a vibe of “just keep it down-to-earth, that’s already plenty unusual.” SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen prepares high-level gastronomy using vegetables and herbs from his own garden, flour (from grain supplied by a neighboring farmer) from the 17th-century mill standing on the premises, and game and beef from the region. His “biscuit with black mouse-shaped candies” is masterful and has long since become the chef’s signature. Highly recommended: the crispy potato base, soft crème fraîche with just enough chives so the flavor doesn’t overpower, and a thick layer of glossy Ossetra caviar. The North Sea crab salad is served atop a concentrated crab jelly, finished with a cream made from sustainably produced marine plankton and seaweed crisps. Brought to the table by the master himself, who notes that the plankton is even more expensive than caviar. The red mullet fillet arrives on a paper-thin layer of bread crust baked right alongside it. Every bite is a delight. The accompaniment of mini-zucchini from his own vegetable garden pairs perfectly with it. And that’s precisely what Cindy recommends as well. We sample a young dry Weissburgunder from Weingut Karl Pfaffmann, vintage 2023. Refreshingly crisp, aromatic, and not too heavy. Rich in fruit notes: lemon, apple, pear. After a delightful raspberry soufflé with thyme ice cream, raspberry jelly, and fresh raspberries, they simply won’t stop serving us the friandises. No problem, they come in a little box to take home and savor later. Top establishment. Ranks 4th.

SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, SVH Master Hostess Cindy Borger, have certainly not been idle over the past year. In February, they joined the prestigious culinary club Les Grandes Tables du Monde; in March, Cindy earned her SVH Master Hostess certification; and in May, they became the new directors of restaurant Poortman in Veeningen, where under their care it delivers the top-tier quality of De Groene Lantaarn, but on a slightly more relaxed level. In between, they manage to guarantee the same gastronomic excellence in their charming and inviting restaurant in Staphorst that guests have come to expect from the couple for years. We are greeted at the front door and guided to a lovely table in the spacious dining room. Chic, with tablecloths stylishly layered with cowhide covers. Colorful and cheerful, partly thanks to the presence of skateboards (Jarno’s hobby) that have been repurposed into side tables and wall art. And last but not least: the warm and friendly approach, genuine and unpretentious, from Cindy and her team. Soon, host and sommelier Pieter-Jan Kruithof (yes, the son of) brings us a particularly beautiful English sparkling wine, a blanc de blanc from Gusbourne in Sussex. Next, the amuse-bouches outshine each other, with each bite tasting even better than the last, starting with the beef tartare with foamy jalapeño sauce that immediately captivates us. We opt for four courses and begin with one of Jarno’s signatures: ‘biscuit with black aniseeds’—a crispy potato rösti topped with creamy chive cream and a generous layer of caviar. Cindy pairs this with a house fino from Colosia in El Puerto de Santa María. What a delight. The pike perch fillet with stuffed morels, double-peeled peas, caramelized and raw chicory, and rich red wine jus is cooked to perfection, as is the juicy regional venison loin, for which I highly recommend simply licking the accompanying pumpkin seed praline clean with your fingers. Because you can, with Jarno and Cindy. All of this is accompanied by a lovely bottle of alluring Fosse-Sèche Arcane from Adrien and Guillaume Pire. Special mention goes to the silver cutlery tray from which you can select your utensils as desired, featuring plenty of spoons so you can easily gather every drop of sauce. As a parting gift, we receive a bag of homemade miller’s flour to make ‘Jarno’s pancakes’ at home. It convincingly climbs seven places to take third spot in the Top-10 of this guide.

Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, hostess and sommelier Cindy Borger, have succeeded in creating an unconventional gastronomic paradise in the Overijssel town of Staphorst. We feel as though we are inside a living painting by an old Dutch master, with views of their mill where grain is ground for homemade bread and biscuits, free-roaming chickens, grazing cows, expansive countryside, and an atmosphere radiating incredible tranquility. And that is not even mentioning the beautiful interior where nothing has been left to chance. Spotless white linen adorns the tables, complemented by exquisite crockery, sparkling glassware, and gleaming cutlery. The kitchen is firmly rooted in French tradition and offers, alongside a multi-course menu (which can also be ordered entirely vegetarian) and a ‘big experience’ menu featuring the ten best dishes of the moment, modest à la carte choices. The wine list reads like a bible and features predominantly French labels. During the aperitif, a full-bodied Chardonnay Saint-Véran, we are presented with four exciting amuse-bouches. One standout is an artful dome of firm green apple foam with herring and elegant fresh acidity that truly awakens the palate. The first course of hamachi with yuzu, plankton, olive oil, and cornflowers is a visual delight. The fish melts on the tongue, its light acidity blending seamlessly with subtle sweetness and the creaminess of the oil. An expressive Riesling from Moser elevates the dish to a higher plane. This is followed by a rich goose liver terrine with licorice jelly, tuiles, meringue, and pickled cherries—a pure taste sensation. Next comes a fillet of local roe deer served with mushroom bread, pomegranate, and pumpkin seed praline. The game is accompanied by a robust tarragon jus and oil. This calls for vibrant fruit in the glass, and the Artadi Viñas de Gain 2019 fully delivers. The pacing of service is flawless, marked by calm and harmony, while the wine and food pairing expertise is impeccable. Everything exudes pure professionalism. The Green Lantern places it in the Top 10 of Lekker, entering at position 10.

Since the arrival of SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, hostess and sommelier Cindy Borger, Staphorst can now boast a true gastronomic destination. De Groene Lantaarn, housed in a historic hall-house farmstead, sits among the meadows just outside the village center. The chef personally greets us at the front door of his stunning restaurant. The hostesses are impeccably dressed in cobalt blue dresses, white sneakers, and red lipstick, and they are all equally friendly and enthusiastic. Nothing escapes Cindy's professional eye; she pays meticulous attention to the smallest details. The decor is rustic, the tables set with spotless white linen, the crockery is breathtakingly beautiful, as is the glassware, and you help yourselves to cutlery stored in a silver Christofle egg. Alongside à la carte selections, there are several tasting menus, and the wine album showcases a wonderful collection of labels, including open bottles and wines by the glass. While enjoying a cocktail of cava infused with basil, passion fruit, and ginger, the table fills with amuse-bouches, including a warm cream puff with aged sheep's cheese from Vreugdehoeve, venison and cinnamon broth, crispy potato with mackerel and seaweed, and a spinach and anchovy tartelette. Each one a visual delight and a burst of flavor—what a welcome! The classic liver terrine with cognac and madeira, airy licorice, and pickled cherries could easily earn the title of signature dish. Its elegance leaves us breathless. In the glass, a Riesling Auslese from Georg Gustav Huff. Next, oysters with mushroom and verbena, with a dry Cabernet Blanc from the Hauer estate in the glass, beautifully matched. The sea bass with goat cheese, zucchini, tomato, artichoke, and thyme and rosemary sauce is not only a feast for the eyes but cooked to perfection. Juicy venison follows, served with beetroot, pomegranate, pumpkin seeds, and double-peeled peas. The poured wine, a Cairanne from Brunel de la Gardina in the Rhône Valley, once again pairs perfectly. The extensive cheese list briefly tempts us, but we ultimately choose something sweet: strawberry with peppermint and lightly sweetened whipped cream, accompanied by a glass of Taittinger Champagne Nocturne à Reims. De Groene Lantaarn has entered the Top 10 of this guide. At position 0.

SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and hostess-sommelier Cindy Borger continue to surpass themselves. Their brand-new venue in Staphorst is in full swing, the dining rooms are overflowing, the kitchen houses a perfectly synchronized team, and the young service staff is quick and highly skilled. And what an entrance! Our walk from the parking lot past Eggen’s latest acquisition, an imposing eight-sided thatched corn mill from 1836, which is bathed in green uplighting after dark. Speaking of welcome: right upon entering, the chef launches an amuse-bouche assault, once again underscoring why his kitchen belongs among the country’s gastronomic elite; lick-pot with paper-thin toast; potato net with beef tartare and jalapeño; sashimi with kohlrabi and wakame; cheese parcel with ham; prawn cracker with Dutch shrimp and tzatziki; rich roe deer broth with cinnamon. Excellent amuse-bouches, bold in flavor, and truly appetite-stimulating. We then begin with a classic goose liver pâté. Two finger-thick slices, prepared with cognac and Madeira, served with a licorice glaze, pickled cherry gel, and licorice macarons. Delicious! Borger pairs it with a beautiful Rheinhessian Auslese made from fermented Huxelrebe grapes (Georg Gustav Huff). Another home run is the glass of spicy Gewürztraminer (Gustave Lorentz) paired with the beef tenderloin 'filet américain'. Finely minced meat, enriched with spicy pepper, chopped gherkins, and red onion. Also excellent is the pan-seared turbot with goose liver, cauliflower, puffed quinoa, and spice jus. And Anjou squab: a juicy breast alongside tender loins and confit legs. Served with apple, caramelized endive, a small jug of squab jus with cognac, and a glass of fruity Limburg Merlot (De Belaeving). De Groene Lantaarn is of impeccable class.

SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, hostess and sommelier Cindy Borger, have opened a beautiful restaurant in the picturesque town of Staphorst after leaving Zuidwolde. An impressive grain mill dating back to 1854 flanks the property, which enjoys a rural setting and a lovely garden. Jarno prefers cooking with produce from his own kitchen garden: 100% organically grown, ranging from flowers and herbs to edible plants and fresh fruit. The surrounding countryside also yields wonderful local ingredients such as game, dairy, honey, and mushrooms. However, he does not limit himself to these alone. His cuisine incorporates influences from around the world. Quality is paramount. While rooted in classic techniques, Jarno gives each dish a contemporary twist. Every plate showcases the chef's craftsmanship and looks stunning. Cindy thoughtfully pairs suitable wines with each course and equally enjoys guiding guests through the extensive wine list. The restaurant team is warm and attentive, working at a highly professional level. A top restaurant!

An 1854 grain mill flanks the Staphorst location of De Groene Lantaarn. In their new establishment, owner-chef Jarno Eggen and hostess Cindy Borger can further hone their talents. The kitchen affords the chef ample space to let his creativity run free. Each dish is exquisitely seasoned and demonstrates Jarno’s craftsmanship. Thrilling yet delicious is the goose liver terrine with airy licorice and cherries. What a wonderful combination! A glass of Huxelrebe Auslese by Gustav Huff, 2018 complements it beautifully. The French wine that follows, Verget du Sud from the Côtes de Lubéron, also pairs exceptionally well with the cod wrapped in locally smoked bacon. It comes with a Japanese-inspired beurre blanc and beetroot sauce, alongside a cracker made from cod skin and green herbs. The main course features braised rib fillet in its own jus, accompanied by a beautiful garnish of savoy cabbage and mushroom mousse. A morel mushroom stuffed with mashed potato sits beside a small beetroot. Cindy serves the 2017 Cabernet Franc Puydeval by Jeff Carrel. After the dessert amuse-bouche of sorrel ice cream with yuzu granita, almond cream, and paper-thin slices of raw snap peas, the dessert arrives: poached peach pieces with yogurt ice cream, red fruit jelly, and fresh raspberries. The crisp Moscato d’Asti Bricco Riella provides an extra sweet accent. For cheese, De Groene Lantaarn offers a choice of no fewer than sixteen varieties, which you select by checking boxes on a card. Served with rice, apple syrup, honey, and raisin bread with pepper. The wine: a port-style Greek Mavrodaphne from 2009. A fine restaurant. Rises 9 places to number 15.

At the end of May 2019, this restaurant will leave Drenthe as owners Cindy Borger and SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen move to a new location in Staphorst (Overijssel). Until then, diners can still indulge in exquisite meals in this beautiful Saxon farmhouse. Afterward, under the same name and with the same ambitious team, they will enchant Overijssel. At the old location, we allow ourselves to be treated once more to amuse-bouche pairings like liquorice with goose liver and passion fruit, squid with olive and jalapeño, ham with cheese, mackerel with pepper, and pork with cucumber. And a delicious lobster bisque. Wonderful flavors, a fantastic start to the meal. Next comes beef shoulder and goose liver with mushrooms and dashi vinegar. All components are served stacked in that exact order and dusted with porcini mushroom powder. Delicious. It’s a shame that the accompanying white wine from Veneto doesn’t harmonize perfectly. The pièce de résistance follows: beautifully cooked Anjou pigeon – with the leg confited separately – served with endive preparations, sheep’s cheese, and house jus. Beautiful in its simplicity, a dish that is flawless in every way, especially in terms of flavor. Cindy pairs it with a 2016 South French Pinot Noir from winemaker Jeff Carrel Puydeval. On the next plate, sweetbreads with peppers, tomato, artichoke, eggplant, and basil vinaigrette. The meat is crispy on the outside and succulent on the inside, accompanied by a delicious cheese risotto. A lovely dish that creates a perfect wine-and-food pairing with a 2016 Austrian Blaufränkisch from Burgenland by Uwe Schiefer. To finish, a small cake with poached peach and yogurt. Delicious, though the promised pistachio is noticeably absent. Despite this, we are thoroughly satisfied. De Groene Lantaarn rises to 24.

Hidden among the greenery, on the outskirts of the municipality, we find an eating paradise in a beautiful Saxon farmhouse belonging to SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner Cindy Borger. They combine Drenthe hospitality with a high culinary standard. The restaurant has plenty of space between tables and a lovely back terrace overlooking the (vegetable) garden. From the surprising sour herring foam with apple slices (the first amuse-bouche) to the equally impressive dessert of sorrel ice cream with apple granité, almond cream, basil, and slivers of raw snap peas (!), everything is of top quality. The young, all-female service team is friendly, attentive, and misses nothing. Hostess Cindy generously complements the wine pairing with delicious wines. After amuse-bouches such as a liquorice macaron with goose liver mousse and a dollop of passion fruit, we begin with gently cooked veal tongue with goose liver and a fresh salad with apple, endive, and a tangy elderflower dressing. Cindy pours a Schloss Vollrads Kabinett Feinherb (2013) from the Rheingau to accompany it. Zuidwolde asparagus with egg yolk, green asparagus, double-peeled garden beans, and cauliflower slices follows as another equally delicious seasonal dish. In the glass: an Alsatian Pinot Blanc Klevner by Jean-Paul Ecklé. The intermezzo course is cod with cellar bacon, white wine sauce, and ponzu. The fish is roasted, the bacon smoked for eight weeks, and as a bridge between them we enjoy a smooth Tuscan Chianti Classico (Castell'in Villa). Beautiful! Saint-Julien 2011 from Château Talbot takes the crown as the perfect accompaniment to the beef tartare with asparagus, cauliflower, potato salad, porcini foam, and house jus. What a superb combination! De Groene Lantaarn is the best restaurant in Drenthe. It moves up two places to number 25.