Restaurant 273

In a spacious building at Oudegracht 273, chef-owner Tommy den Hartog has been operating his Restaurant 273 since 2021. Guests are welcomed in various settings, including a chef's table with high bar stools offering a view of the...

In het stijlvolle en moderne Restaurant 273 van eigenaar en chef-kok Tommy den Hartog is elke tafel bezet tijdens de doordeweekse avond van ons bezoek. Vanuit het chic gedekte restaurantgedeelte, aan de chefs table of op hoge banken met zicht op de open keuken, kun je proeven van een meergangenmenu of keuzes maken van de kleine à-la-cartekaart. Hier wordt internationaal gekookt met Franse en Aziatische invloeden. Als aperitief een champagne Domaine Lagille, Grande Reserve Brut. Een verrukkelijke blend van pinot noir, chardonnay en pinot meunier. Van de kaart met bites bestellen we cepes-kroketjes die goed op smaak zijn maar net iets te hard gebakken. Vooraf ceviche van avocado met koolrabi, zoete aardappel, sojabonen en krokante maïs. Daarbij gefermenteerde aardbei, koriandercress en verschillende soorten oliën waaronder sesam en rode peper. Een geweldige combinatie van smaken en een prachtig kleurenpalet. Het gerecht is in balans met het glas Zantho Muskat Ottonel 2024 aanbevolen door gastvrouw en sommelier Katrien Nijmeijer. De hoofdschotel geeft dikke plakken roségebraden lamsvlees met artisjok, antiboise en ansjovis. Het vlees smelt op de tong. De Mas Granier, La Clemence 2022 sluit perfect aan. We sluiten af met melkchocolade, vanille, pinda, fudge en miso. Een schitterende koepel van chocolade die je moet inslaan om bij de inhoud te komen. De combinatie is best machtig, maar we smullen ons nagerecht tot de laatste kruimel op. Lof voor de zwarte brigade die uitstekend op elkaar ingespeeld is en waar het plezier vanaf straalt. Toppertje. Sinds 1 september versterken chef Hans Geertsema en gastvrouw Aline Mannes het restaurant, en binnenkort verrijkt Tommy de beleving verder met een aparte ruimte voor aperitieven en digestieven.

Located on the Oudegracht in Utrecht, yes, at house number 273, chef Tommy den Hartog opened his long-awaited restaurant in 2021 after gaining experience at various top establishments across the Netherlands. The location is stunning, and the décor could easily compete with a chic Parisian bistro. The space is divided into distinct seating configurations. In the dining area, tables are elegantly set with linen, there is a chef’s table with a marble top and high bar stools offering a view of the open kitchen, and you can also take a seat at tall tables. Tommy cooks an international cuisine featuring predominantly Dutch ingredients. There is a chef’s menu consisting of five or six courses and a rather modest à la carte selection. Alongside our aperitif, a Riesling from Alsace, we try the vegetarian bitterballen from the bites menu, filled with wild mushrooms and topped with laver and a dollop of piccalilli. It leaves you wanting more. But the oysters are equally tempting, so we sample an Asian-style oyster with cucumber, finger lime, citrus, and ginger. These are available to order individually. Up front, a ceviche of sweet potato, green strawberries, and kohlrabi surrounded by tiger milk. Colorfully plated, a feast for the eyes and a stimulant for the taste buds. The acidity really pops. The gently cooked cod boasts a flawless texture and arrives with accompaniments of Dutch shrimp, caviar, and a foaming beurre blanc. A plate full of comfort food. We finish with a Tartelette Romanoff with strawberries, lime, mascarpone, and vodka. Fresh, fruity, and once again beautifully presented. Tommy rules.

Located on the Oudegracht, a fantastic location in the heart of Utrecht. It boasts a chic and warm ambiance featuring red copper, green velvet, marble, and subtle mood lighting. For an elegant setting, there are beautifully set tables with linen, alongside a chef’s table overlooking the open kitchen and comfortable high bar stools. You feel as though you’ve stepped into a Parisian bistro. Chef-owner Tommy den Hartog prepares international cuisine and offers à la carte dishes alongside a preferred multi-course menu. The wine list is impressive, and sommelier Katrien Nijmeijer is rightly proud of its diversity. After a delightful triple amuse of lime, pleated tomato, and goat cheese, we are served the first course: a vegetarian ceviche made with avocado, green strawberry, kohlrabi, and tiger milk. The overall flavor is intense, with the acidity really popping. The accompanying wine, a Trimbach Riesling from Alsace, can barely keep up. This is followed by a potato dish featuring generously shaved summer truffle, trompette de la mort mushrooms, and a raw egg yolk. A delicious dish with excellent structure. The main course is turbot with Oosterschelde eel served on savoy cabbage with blood sausage and a red wine sauce. A perfectly cooked piece of fish that pairs beautifully with the eel and blood sausage. The dessert is a chocolate sphere containing vanilla ice cream, hazelnut, fudge, and miso. Once the sphere is cracked open, we see melted Magnum ice cream inside. Ingenious.

Last year’s newcomer to this guide continues to receive universal acclaim this year. Chef patron Tommy den Hartog is on a meteoric rise. His cooking style is international, utilizing modern techniques firmly grounded in classical foundations. This results in beautiful creations, often with an Eastern twist. The interior of the fairly narrow Pijpenla is cosmopolitan, featuring abundant copper, marble, and concrete finishes. Guests can choose from various seating arrangements, including linen-draped tables, high-top tables, and the chef’s table overlooking the open kitchen. The venue is bustling with couples, friend groups, and business diners. The menu features both a chef’s tasting menu and à la carte options. We start with “Asian” oysters served with cucumber, lime, citrus, and ginger. This is followed by steak tartare, a classic dish that takes on a surprising umami depth thanks to sambal and shiso. The vegetarian beetroot, presented on the plate like a rose with tarragon oil, yogurt sauce, aceto gel, and olive crumble, is elevated to another level by the addition of horseradish. Visually striking and absolutely delicious. Wine lovers can indulge here without restraint, thanks to an extensive wine list and sommelier Katrien Nijmeijer, who excels at her craft. With the lamb, she serves a 2021 Domaine La Tour Beaumont, Sauvignon Plan Haut Poitou, and for dessert, a 2021 Kacher Spätlese Rosé with notes of strawberry, cherry, and red fruit. A true gem on Utrecht’s Oudegracht.

In a beautiful monumental building on the Oudegracht in Utrecht, luxuriously and warmly furnished with deep green tones, marble, and concrete-look surfaces, you can take your seat in various settings. There are linen-covered tables in the restaurant, a chef’s table with a grand view of the open kitchen, and high tables opposite them. Owner-chef Tommy den Hartog and his young brigade deliver truly gastronomic masterpieces. Such as the steak tartare made from milk-fed beef, dressed with onion oil, sambal, and shiso. This cress is not merely for decoration but adds a very distinctive accent to the dish. The super-fresh cod, drizzled with beurre blanc containing salmon roe, delicate vegetables, and finger lime, is light and refreshing. The duck breast is roasted to a rosé pink and garnished with beetroot and an elegant sauce of orange and clove. Just enough clove to be tasted without being overpowering. Vegetarian guests are equally well catered for. Celery root with green apple and preserved lemon is bold in flavor and perfectly balanced. We are attended to by restaurant manager and sommelier Patricia Nijmeijer. Talented and highly driven in her craft. She selects intriguing wines, including Székszárd Kadarka from Hungary to accompany the tartare. Excellent! All dishes are served on self-designed earthenware. What a wonderful addition to Utrecht’s dining scene. Class! Welcome to Lekker.