De Vrijstad

De Vrijstad, located in the center of Vianen, has long been a staple dining destination in this region. The dining room is packed, with a large group seated at the back in the former notary's house. Otherwise, it is mostly couples and groups of four. Host Arjan de Groot welcomes us warmly, but otherwise leaves us in the hands of the friendly, albeit very young, waitstaff who could still use a bit of guidance. Our four-course menu features several very tasty dishes from the kitchen, such as the king crab with a salad of crunchy vegetables, crème fraîche, and crispy buckwheat. It not only looks beautiful, it is also everything a fresh crab salad should be. Wrapped in paper-thin cucumber, delicate pieces of crab meat, apple cubes, and beautifully dressed. Paired with the accompanying Chablis from the French producer Fèvre, this makes for a perfect start to the meal. The Jerusalem artichoke with shiitake, black garlic, sour cluster mushroom, and smoked soy sauce is another standout: an umami bomb and an ideal vegetarian intermezzo. Both main courses – sukade for the meat lover and brook trout as the fish option – demonstrate skill: everything is flavorful and well-executed, yet somewhat bland and risk-free. This applies equally to the two accompanying wines: a Chardonnay and a Spanish Rioja Graciano by Lera Garcia. We round off the meal with a generous and excellent cheese plate and a delightful dessert where soft matcha ice cream pairs beautifully with the fresh, creamy panna cotta, sweet meringue, and poached pear. De Vrijstad is a solid establishment, but could use a bit more spark here and there.

In the former notary’s house on the Voorstraat in Vianen, the De Groot family holds culinary sway. Here, Chef René de Groot serves classical cuisine with Asian influences. We are seated by brother and maître Arjan de Groot, who oversees service, in the chic, modern dining room where a relaxed atmosphere prevails. There is no menu card; it is a multi-course tasting menu, and we had already made our selections when booking. Delicious warm bread arrives at the table with cultured butter and green herb oil, which does not appear on the bill. The amuse-bouches—a crispy horn with miso, parsnip, and yuzu; a tartelette with pumpkin, soy, and mandarin; and turnip with seroendeng, fried onions, and cashews—are delightful starters. The starter is sea bass, pan-fried until crispy on the skin, served with carrot structures, tom kha kai sauce, and green herb oil. It is a pity that it is served on a cold plate, causing the fish to cool down too quickly. The pièce de résistance is perfectly cooked diamond sole, served generously alongside potato rösti, bimi, caramelized onion, and veal jus. The dish is elevated to a higher level by the Shiraz-dominated blend from the renowned South African winery Boekenhoutskloof. A special shout-out goes to the selection of premium Dutch cheeses such as Ossekop, Oudwijker Fiore, Texelse Oude, and Oudwijker Colosso, which can be ordered for a modest supplement. Served alongside are fig bread, dried plums, and pear compote. Finally, the friendly bill rounds off the evening perfectly, making it a truly festive occasion.

The brothers René and Arjan de Groot literally had a passion for the hospitality industry instilled in them from birth. A few years ago, they took over their parents' restaurant, with Arjan specializing in guest service and René calling the shots in his French-inspired kitchen. Recently, the former notary's residence was renovated, and the result is stunning. The dining room has been extended at the rear, and the kitchen has doubled in size. The interior now boasts a modern and chic aesthetic, and the terrace has been refreshed. Paired with a lively Aretey cava, we indulge in super-fresh oysters served classically with vinaigrette and lemon. The amuse-bouches are delightful: a seed cracker with parmesan cream, piccalilli, sweet-and-sour mustard seeds, and a fried caper, alongside a tartelette featuring endive, potato foam, chives, and bacon. The restaurant exclusively offers surprise tasting menus. With a Riesling from Rheinhessen, we sample sea bass ceviche with cucumber, hangop curd, sweet-and-sour radish, cabbage sorbet, and a whey sauce. Fresh and light. The main course features perfectly cooked, juicy veal loin with green asparagus, pea cream, sugar snap peas, and oyster mushrooms. Simply divine. It is accompanied by a lovely, soft French red wine, a Domaine Castel Oualou Lirac. To finish, we enjoy a basil panna cotta with elderflower bavarois, strawberry ice cream, and rhubarb. The service pace is pleasant, the atmosphere is good, and no, there is still no dedicated focus on vegetarian cuisine. That remains an area for growth.