Restaurant Smink

High quality cooking

Chef-owner Jan and hostess Anne Smink have now settled into the stately Huize Lindenoord on the edge of Wolvega's town center. We are impressed by both the exterior and the stylish interior, and take our seats on comfortable benches. For years, Jan has consistently prepared classical French cuisine at a high level, infused with Frisian and Asian flavors. Frequently used ingredients are locally sourced, including bread from baker De Kuyper, meat from Dutch dairy cows and Frisian Black Angus, and fish, crustaceans, and shellfish from the Frisian Wadden Sea. Accompanying a glass of Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut are palate awakeners such as the familiar rollmops on a potato chip with mustard seeds, as well as a clever little tasting glass of fermented white cabbage with cucumber sorbet and tempeh. The sea bass with mandarin and shiso is served directly by Jan himself, who provides a clear explanation of the preparation. The fish is lightly seasoned with pepper, served with a mandarin and yuzu sauce, and topped with crispy shrimp and cockles, dill, and shiso. On-duty sommelier Ingeborg Gruter pairs it with a glass of golden-yellow, crisp Michel 2021, Tephrit, Achkarren from Kaiserstuhl Baden, which accentuates the fresh flavors. Pan-seared plaice with a parmesan-tomato crust, yuzu-infused foam, and veal jus represents a 'rooted and daring' experiment that has been excellently executed. Rose-roasted loin and braised beef with caramelized onion are accompanied by spring turnips, double-podded garden peas, Indian cress leaves, and a dashi foam. Served at the table with its own jus and mustard seeds. Paired with a decanted Château Mitrotes 2022, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux. What a heavenly pairing. Thumbs up for the flawless service, which is knowledgeable, cheerful, and highly hospitable. Smink rules. Rises to 39.

The atmosphere at Smink is relaxed, and in the open kitchen, owner-chef Jan Smink and his team are already busy preparing. Not long after, a parade of amuse-bouches passes by: wagyu beef tail piece with puffed rice and shiso leaf, tartelette with garden peas and Dutch shrimp, potato crisp with herring roll ice cream and mustard seeds, mini taco with parmesan, pimento, and gherkin, crispy soybean cubes with pointed cabbage and cucumber. A lovely start. We are curious to see what comes next. When we ask for tap water alongside our ordered wine, there is an alternative available. Bottled water can be ordered, with the proceeds going to charity. Fresh warm sourdough bread rolls are served with beurre noisette, farmhouse butter, delicious olive oil, and sea salt. The rolls are regularly replenished. We enjoy the wild sea bass tartare and broth with a hint of mandarin, while drinking an Austrian Riesling, Dockner Tom Parapluiberg Traisental 2022. The slight acidity in the wine pairs seamlessly with the freshness of the dish. Sommelier Ingeborg Gruter provides inspiring explanations about the wines. The beautiful glasses could certainly be poured a bit more generously. We continue with ray wing with horseradish, dill, and caviar. Perhaps the most delicious dish of the evening. The various preparations of Frisian lamb also meet expectations and taste great, but we do expect a bit more creativity from a restaurant at this level. The cheese comes at a high price; the supplement is steep. With the bill, we receive two homemade lollipops to take home and enjoy. Meanwhile, Smink has acquired a beautiful property, the national monument Huize Lindenoord in the same town. Renovations are well underway, and they expect to open the doors to their new establishment in early 2025. The name Smink will remain, as will their fine dining concept. It remains firmly at number 44.

At Smink, nothing is left to chance. This small restaurant, housed in a former bank building, features a modern interior and a cozy atmosphere, seating around twenty guests. Both the front-of-house and back-of-house teams operate at a high level and work together as one unit. The Frisian farmer’s son, Jan Smink, cooks with local produce, and from his open kitchen emerge dishes showcasing ingenuity and creativity. The uniformly dressed waitstaff quickly brings surprising amuse-bouches, such as a puffed bacon cracker with green asparagus and wild garlic, and a sesame crisp filled with North Sea crab and lime leaf. Our taste buds are on high alert. The surprise menu is discussed beforehand. We kick off with yellowtail kingfish, accompanied by codium tempura, mango, a coconut and green curry dressing, pickled onion, cucumber, and green asparagus. A visual masterpiece, flawlessly prepared in terms of flavor. Next comes gently cooked ray wing on velvety soft mashed potatoes with dill, horseradish sauce, crispy puffed potato bits, and caviar. Creamy and delicate in flavor. It is paired with a French Sauvignon Blanc, Attitude Pascal Jolivet from the Loire, whose mineral notes make an excellent match. Also nice that they later pour us a generous refill. It doesn't show up on the bill. The highlight of the evening is the array of lamb preparations. Juicy fillet, slow-cooked neck, lamb-filled ravioli, spare rib, served with white asparagus and a delicious lamb jus with cumin. Paired with a Tempranillo 2018, Crianza, Sierra Cantabria, Rioja, rich in dark fruit flavors. Served slightly too warm for our liking, which causes it to lose some of its character. The finale is also perfectly executed. Crispy pandan, with black tea ice cream, passionfruit jelly, and yuzu-marinated kiwi. Please save room for the sweet pastries with your coffee or tea, as they are truly delightful. Smink rules. Score rises to 44.

Owner-chef Jan Smink cherishes his roots, and using products from the Frisian countryside that he grew up with as a farmer's son, he cooks what he calls the Smink style. Let's get straight to the point: here, cooking reaches an absolutely exquisite level. From the first amuse-bouche to the final sweet treat, everything maintains a high gastronomic standard. Jan is a maverick chef who certainly doesn't stand still. In his Smink shop, special products are available for purchase, such as Beerenburg developed with Weduwe Joustra, Smink farmer's brown butter, Goût beer created in collaboration with his sommelier Marvin Walraven and Dockum Brewery, and besides that, Jan is a colostrum expert. From the smooth and pleasant welcome, the stay, the beautifully presented and flavorful dishes, to the approach of the restaurant staff, everything is inspiring and just slightly different from the norm. The fact that Jan gained work experience at establishments including De Librije clearly bears fruit here. The tasting menu is discussed according to preference, and the wine list is extensively curated. We sample perfectly cooked ray wings with brook trout eggs, dill, and a rich buttermilk sauce with horseradish. And turbot with cured meat, cucumber, pea sauce, and edible flowers. The lamb loin fillet from the main course comes with the saddle and a glazed neck piece. And that needs nothing more than plump pommes dauphines with goat cheese, al dente celeriac with cumin, and an absolutely gorgeous jus. In the glass, a complex wine with plenty of oak, a Northern Spanish Pago de Araiz from Navarra. At checkout, we are surprised with a delicious sip of Beerenburg infused with tonka beans, and yes, a bottle goes home with us. Top establishment! Rises to 00.

Chef-owner Jan Smink is a creative maverick, and we mean that in the most positive sense. At Voedselbos Blesdijkerheide, where crops are grown without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, Smink cultivates not potatoes and carrots, but verbena, buckwheat, and hops. Of the latter, Jan plans to develop a beer together with his sommelier in the future. This is just one of the initiatives that set him apart. He cooks with ingredients he was raised on as a farmer’s son, and the milk still comes straight from his father’s farm. If you think this means rustic farmhouse cooking: think again. The gastronomic standard is exceptionally high. From the parade of amuse-bouches, a crispy pastry bun filled with eel brandade and topped with herring roe, alongside a 2.0 take on the classic Caesar salad, immediately makes a strong impression. The hand-cut veal tenderloin starter features cubes of veal tongue, garnished with flammkuchen crisp, onion rings, and surrounded by dashi pearls, caper leaves, and a sweet-and-sour radish dressing. It offers a refined balance of gentle sweetness and soft acidity. Our host recommends mixing the components before taking your first bite. The Andalusian Blanco de Hornillos from Bodega Viña Callejuela pairs seamlessly. The pan-fried turbot with champagne foam is cooked to perfection, and quite surprisingly, it is paired with a glass of Vuurzee sparkling beer from De Goede en de Stoute. The rosé-roasted roe deer loin is carved tableside by the chef himself and served with a jus made using 'poivre longue'. The accompanying bold Italian red, Gricos Aglianico del Vulture 2019, made from grapes grown in volcanic soil, completes the flavor profile. Friesland can be thrilled about this culinary jewel. It enters our Top 100 at number 00.

Oud-Librije: Chef Jan Smink is a man of many talents. Besides running his own restaurant, he can be hired as a private chef, works freelance as a culinary advisor and guest speaker. He is also available for catering and events, food styling, product development, demos, and workshops. You need an iron constitution to juggle so many roles, yet Frisian farmer’s son Smink seemingly handles them all effortlessly. Set in a contemporary space (a former bank office) characterized by dark tones and natural materials, the kitchen operates with boldness, abundant creativity, innovation, and a strong focus on immersive dining experiences. The love for Friesland leaps from every plate. Jan: “I prefer to cook and work with as many local products as possible, but when aiming for the finest ingredients, we also source ponzu from Japan, pigeon from France, truffles from Italy, alongside our own homegrown produce. We maintain our own vegetable and herb garden in a nearby village where everything for us is cultivated. The colostrum and meat come directly from my parents’ farm. Extremely diverse.” Ranging from fresh to crisp and from youthful to juicy, with bottles priced between €40 and €400, the wine list features a beautiful and extensive selection of classic wines alongside those from producers who embody current trends. Sommelier Marvin Walraven pours exceptional choices, accompanying each pour with expert insights delivered in an engaging manner. We also appreciate the black brigade, who are young, warm, and exceptionally hospitable. In short: the Frisian town of Wolvega can proudly boast a culinary gem. A valuable addition to the region! Newsflash: During the corona crisis, Jan Smink opened a second restaurant in the

Chef Jan Smink’s Ex-Librije is a contemporary restaurant where ambition drips from every detail. Since its opening by Jonnie and Thérèse Boer, it has been packed. You choose between four and eight courses here and let yourself be surprised by dishes that haven't been served in this part of Friesland before. The ambiance is equally modern: lots of black tones and young male waitstaff in waistcoats. And: a genuine 3D printer in the forward kitchen near the entrance. With Marvin Walraven, Jan Smink has secured an excellent sommelier. After four lovely amuse-bouches, we enjoy the first course: tartare of pickled tail meat with small cubes of celeriac, piccalilli, finely chopped mushrooms, and crème fraîche, topped with crispy popped buckwheat and winter truffle crumbs. Wine: Vermentino di Sardegna 2017 by Antonella Corda. The skin-on baked pollock could have been a bit warmer, but the main course is completely on point: roasted veal loin and braised beef cheek with its own jus on a very fine bed of onions. In the glass, a Laya Garnacha-Monastrell 2017 from Almansa, Spain. The dessert is beerenburg ice cream with a crispy peppermint ring, boerenmeisjes cookies, and a beautiful sauce made from sea buckthorn berries and olive oil. What a wonderful addition to this region. Storming toward the Top 100. Welcome to Lekker!