Coperto Restobar

For the second time in a row, Coperto Restobar has graced the columns of this guide, and deservedly so. Set in a relaxed ambiance within a stately building and part of the Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Ter Borch, you can truly savor the high-quality fine dining cuisine of chef Gijs Koopman. He prepares seasonal dishes with a focus on Mediterranean flavors. The dining room is spacious yet intimate, featuring contemporary decor, while the large windows provide an expansive view. Here, a chef’s selection menu is offered, optionally paired with a matching wine arrangement, starting at three courses and expandable up to six. These are ordered per table. A fixed fee per person is charged for water service. For our aperitif, we opt for three oysters served with shallot dressing and lemon. Pure and bursting with flavor is the vegetarian starter of charred watermelon, accompanied by pistachio dukkah, feta, coriander, yogurt, and Kalamata olives. It instantly transports us to a sunny Greek island. In the glass, an aromatic and characterful French rosé from Domaine du Jas d’Esclans. And just as delighted are we by a perfectly cooked beef cheek served with jus and Café de Paris butter. As an extra, we add fries with Zwolle mustard mayonnaise. Nothing wrong with that. And the same goes for the bill, which is downright modest given what is offered. Finally: overnight stays are also an option, and in good weather you can enjoy sitting outside under the leafy canopy. A lovely spot.

Located on the outskirts of Zwolle, right next to the train station. Coperto Restobar is part of Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Ter Borch, where you can enjoy (business) lunches, dinners, or a luxurious cocktail with matching bites. The menu changes quite frequently, and Chef Gijs Koopman prepares dishes with a Mediterranean touch. It sits comfortably in a beautiful open dining room surrounded by large windows, featuring a sleek interior and designer ceiling lighting. There are no amuse-bouches here, but rather a small bowl of smoked almonds served with your aperitif, along with a roll of crispy sourdough bread accompanied by olive oil, cultured butter, and sea salt. The bread is refilled free of charge upon request. To start, thin slices of lightly cured beef tenderloin on tartar sauce with a fresh herb garden and potato chips. In all its simplicity, a very tasty and beautifully presented dish. Paired with a glass of Blanc de Noir 2023 from Weingut Raddeck in Nierstein am Rhein, which pairs perfectly. We continue with foie gras, wonderfully silky and served at the right temperature. Also excellent is the lightly sweet garnish of yellow beetroot marinated in white port with raisins, pineapple, endive, and hazelnuts. The brioche chips miss the mark, however, being hard and flavorless. Next up are two preparations of lamb: a nicely pink-roasted lamb fillet and a braised lamb stew. The ras el hanout is noticeable but doesn’t overpower. Served with a generous portion of vegetables including green asparagus, bimi, braised leek, and snap peas. The light mashed potatoes with lemongrass foam and the house jus with morels bring everything together. A fine spot for a pleasant meal – there is also space for private dining, by the way – at a very reasonable price. Welcome to Lekker.

A new hotspot in the capital of Overijssel. Coperto brands itself as a restobar and serves as the restaurant for the Pillows Hotel, situated right next to Grand Hotel Wientjes and just steps from the NS station. Housed in a stylishly renovated townhouse featuring contemporary decor, terraces, lounges, and an exceptional kitchen helmed by Rotterdam-Twente veteran chef John Spruit and his sous-chef Jason Westerveen. They serve French-Mediterranean cuisine with Eastern influences and have already attracted a steadily growing following of discerning diners. As we enjoy bread with butter, olive oil, and Mediterranean spreads, master sommelier Bert Hoekman pours us a straw-yellow Les Zazous Blanc La Croix Gratiot, 2021 – crafted from Roussanne and Picpoul grapes – from the Languedoc. This is followed by an appetizer of yellowtail kingfish with Japanese seaweed mayonnaise and caviar. Fresh, briny, and balanced with pleasant acidity. On the adjacent plate, a ceviche of raw sea bream marinated in 'leche de tigre' with cucumber, yuzu, passion fruit, and wild garlic. Beautiful! Next arrives the veal shank with garden peas, fregola, and salsa verde. Tender meat complemented by a delicious accompaniment and a wonderfully traditional wine: a 2019 Beaujolais from Domaine des Nugues. Fruity and silky, light red and succulent. For my dining companion, there is North Sea red mullet. Pan-seared on the skin and served with tomato-antiboise, butter-braised lamb ear, and carrot cream. A surprising fusion of classic and modern craftsmanship. To conclude, fudge with caramel, speculaas spice, Grand Marnier, and lemon curd. Welcome to Delicious!