The story
Starý Biskupský Hostinec delivers refined European cuisine from a neoclassical building in Nitra that traces its roots to 1831. Bishop Vurum originally constructed the structure as an inn for travelers passing through the region. After decades of neglect, a comprehensive renovation reopened the doors in May 2015. The current kitchen applies a seasonal cuisine philosophy to ingredients sourced from nearby agriculture.
A major overhaul a decade ago replaced decay with durable materials and polished surfaces. Sculptural pieces now function as practical partitions rather than mere decoration. These architectural choices break the expansive dining hall into smaller, quieter zones. Guests seeking daylight often reserve tables on the adjacent terrace, which operates as a daytime café during warmer months.
The Gault&Millau panel noted how concisely the kitchen handles complex preparations. Diners frequently order the Hokkaido pumpkin velouté alongside salmon ravioli filled with saffron ricotta. The meal typically concludes with a house-made sour cherry mono-dessert that balances acidity against sweetness. Beverage selections draw heavily from the attached Jelšovce distillery, placing regional fruit spirits prominently beside a wine list that continues to mature alongside this modern cuisine.
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