Maihöfli by UniQuisine

High quality cooking

16 points, 1 Michelin star. That brings guests through the door. Robert Steuri doesn't disappoint them, ensuring they book a second and third visit to the «Maihöfli». His trump cards: pleasant, cleverly renovated high-ceilinged rooms. A magical garden. Friendly prices. And above all, a stunning cuisine: enormously elaborate. Enchanting in flavor. The chef isn't much of a fan of the theory that "three components are enough." He wants more. This usually leads to home runs. And sometimes also to an overcrowded plate. The amuse-bouche service at the «Maihöfli» is also something of a showcase. The three chefs, who have been there since day one, present their finger-food snacks: sushi carrots with ponzu gel. Steamed buns with mini corn salad and jalapeños. Tartelettes with oxheart tomato tartare, roasted sunflower seeds, scamorza, and chive oil. Tomato essence ("We've reduced it tenfold") with herbs and kombu seaweed leaf. Cauliflower in various forms with a seductive, slightly piquant tom yum sauce. The message is clear: if a dedicated group takes the labor-intensive route, a special gourmet experience is guaranteed. The trout to kick off the menu (five courses for 139 francs) is sourced by the chef from the «Langerlenhof» in nearby Schwarzenberg. "Trout blue" can hardly be the theme at Robert Steuri's place. Sometimes he turns the farmed fish into a trout ragout; this time we get it with smoked fish mousse, oyster, and beans; the green beans also define the refreshing sauce. A small but exquisite upgrade is possible and highly recommended: ten grams of Kaviari Crystal caviar (for 32 francs). The next course might be the best: a true carrot extravaganza, monochromatic in presentation. On the small plate: fermented carrot, pickled carrot, carrot sorbet, carrot mousse, passion fruit, kimchi salad, sesame. Everything is there: sweetness, acidity, heat, gentleness, crunch. And umami. "Tell me where the sea bass is hiding," we wondered in the next round, because the plate was absolutely packed: the fermented sea bass slice lay beneath various gels, under a fennel praline, and on a fine potato salad. Not enough: fried calamaretti were piled on top, and they were really good! During the holiday season, Steuri invites guests on a culinary vacation trip, say to Greece: chicken with Greek salad and Metaxa sauce. The boys worked hard on the pork knuckle: marinated for 24 hours, the skin loosened and stuffed with a liver forcemeat. Finally, the thigh meat is cooked for two hours at 64 degrees. Steuri moved from Grindelwald («Glacier») to Lucerne and has since built strong relationships with Central Swiss producers. Markus Heinzer from Muotathal, for example, is his trusted man for meat. Steuri: "I get from him the best lambs I've ever processed, as well as first-class pork. We stay loyal, using everything from the pig: shank, ear, heart, liver, belly, tail, and snout." In the summer menu, Muotathal veal is the trump card. We get a portion of veal shank, braised for three days, with a Mexican twist: barbecue glaze, Tex-Mex elements, corn, peppers, jalapeño. The chef only reveals two more ingredients to guests known for their fearlessness: veal tongue and heart are hidden in the salad. The small brigade can also handle desserts: a lovely lemon dessert, for instance, with pistachio, basil, and Maggia pepper for a power boost. Sommelier Heng Gui is always up for a surprise. He uncorked a Merlot from Eich LU to go with the veal! The «Maihöfli» is also a first-class vegan destination: kohlrabi, carrots, eggplant, artichokes, and peppers are transformed into an appealing multi-course vegetable selection.